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Sunday, June 7, 2020

Toad Machine Tales, episode 1


Toad Machine Tales, episode 1

After Mods, Sea Trials Commence
June 5 2020
David Hutton, Palmetto Fly n Fish

Location: Lake Murray, South Carolina
Conditions - clear skies, hot and humid
Temps - 85 to 90 degrees F,
Wind - 2 to 4 mph
Water temp, surface: 78-80



The Toad Machine


Today was the first outing of the re-vamped, "Toad Machine."

For those just coming in, the Toad Machine, with it's unlikely name, is a 16 ft, fiberglass, canoe sorta-pirogue boat.
She was built in 1981 by Happy Traveler Marine, out of Tifton, GA.
There's a flat bottom, a transom stern for a motor, and she resembles an early Gheenoe. I expect it was originally a knock off of that venerable design.
I've had her in in the yard under wraps for awhile, but I took her into refit back in March and have made a lot of modifications. I've added a bunch of fishing focused-features that will be covered in this, and future issues.

POWER UP
When I took the Toad Machine out for her initial sea trials, I quickly discovered the old girl was a beast to paddle. She's stable, and the long hull line and upturned prow is reminiscent of a Viking longship.
Taken together, these things allows her to track pretty well.
But for one person, paddling, well... she's a hog.
Her length also makes turning a slow proposition. What she needs is power of some kind.

Ideally, I'd outfit with a 10 hp outboard - that is what she was designed for.
But, I'm not working with a big budget, here, and at the price of outboards, today, well,... lets just say it's NO budget.
However, trolling motors exist in my price range, and I can get big AGM batteries basically for nothing in my work, so that would be the way forward.

Fortunately, I'm not a stranger to boats, including a passing familiarity with sail boats and some of THEIR gear.
So I knew what I was after, and a 12 vdc, 46 pound thrust Newport Vessels trolling motor landed at my door. This motor is popular, and is well-reviewed in the sailing community for powering dingies and small tenders.
It is salt-water rated, and its designed for transom mounting.
Perfect!

46 pounds of full-throttle thrust is way more than adequate for the weight of the Toad Machine, with the motor drawing 40 amps at max output.
With five forward speed settings, a little quick math says my current 110 ah battery bank will give me the following run times:

20% throttle - 8A, 13.75 hrs
40% throttle - 16A, 6.875 hrs
60% throttle - 24 A, 4.58 hrs
80% throttle - 32 A, 3.43 hrs
100% throttle - 40 A, 2.75 hrs
("A" - DC amps)

The boat moves along smartly at the intermediate settings, and I augment with a paddle, both for exercise and close handling. On the first day, after 4.25 hours of my usual fishing and running, the battery power gauge on the motor hadn't budged from the top level.
So far, so good.

REMOTE CONTROL
Next, I knew I would not be sitting in the back of the boat.
I intend to work from a swiveling "captains seat" mounted at the center - you can see it in the opening picture. I also have my batteries mounted forward of center.
All this weight shifting has one purpose - to move the balance point away from the stern, and keep the nose down. This helps minimize wind drift and improves both control and fish-a-bility.

But I had a dilemma: I now have a motor, but it is in the stern - and I don't intend to be!
Just how am I to steer and control the speed, from my seat in the middle?

The solution is simple: a tiller extension with a pivoting, universal-joint.
Tiller extensions are another common feature on sailboats; they let you maintain direct control of the tiller and still allow movement around the cockpit.
And since I have to rotate the motors' tiller handle to control throttle, the extension must also include a U- joint.

The market provides just about anything you'd want for boats, and jointed extensions can be had for $50-$100... and that's yet another thing to put a kink in my already meager budget.
So I made my own extension.

Using a generic, industrial U-joint, a few carefully chosen PVC plumbing bits, and a little handywork...I was in business.
I'm pleased to say it works as intended; I can steer and control the throttle from the center position.
It works best sitting side-saddle, as is the case with all tiller controls.
The stark white color of the PVC will have to go, however. I'm thinking a camouflage scheme to match the boat....(UPDATE- this has been done. Camouflage...its now invisible LOL)




Swing it to the left... swing it to the right.

ODDS AND ENDS

Ready-holders for rods are a must on any fishing boat, and I managed to squeeze in a few to starboard. Most people festoon their small boats, kayaks, etc. with vertical rod holders - they look like porcupines.
But I can't fly cast with a forest of rods jutting skyward from my boat, so vertical rod holders are out of the question.

In the pic above, you'll see I've arranged horizontal stowage below the starboard gunwale.
For example, a fly rod is held at the ready under tension - the reel to the rear, a rounded "mushroom knob" for the middle, and the blue "fingers" forward to keep the rod tip secure.
The rod fingers are an idea I've used for years - any rod not in-hand has its tip section rested in the fingers so it doesn't wander around.
Down lower on the gunwale, you'll see three rod keepers to hold extra spinning rods, should I elect to carry them.
My usual rod load-out is:

1 Fly Rod
1-3 spinning/casting rods.



Seen above is a little tool bag forward of the seat, for a knife, pliers, etc.
The drink holder is now gone - its a good idea to have one, but THIS one was constantly snagging the fly line. 

I have a folding, streamlined model on the way to replace it.

THE READY BAG
This isn't directly related to the boat, itself, but it's key to smooth planning when going out IN the boat.
Something I hate is wasting time gathering stuff to bring fishing. I want everything prepped to go, so nothing is forgotten, and only the bare minimum effort is needed to get on the road.

So I depend on a "ready bag," which I keep by the door.
In it are essentials needed for being in the boat, but things which I don't want to LEAVE in the boat (fishing tackle is prepped and stowed separately).


Ready Bag


Ready Bag contents (L to R, clockwise)
Aqua shoes for use while in the boat
Dry, slip on shoes
Bamboo tube holding cigar
Matches
Knife
Signal Mirror
Signal whistle
Signal Horn
Sealed bag with cell phone, camera, snacks, incidentals

These contents are flexible and will come and go as the season progresses

BACKING-UP AIDS
I've never been good at backing trailers on a boat ramp - there I said it. 
Not ashamed, not sorry.
Knowing that I am potentially the worst at this crucial part of boating, I have been practicing a lot.
I just drive around town and find difficult places into which I can back the boat. This helps.

But one problem I encountered with The Toad Machine is that she disappears when backing down the ramp... I can't see her once she drops down towards the water!
And I can't open the tailgate because of the boats length, It must remain in the closed position.
To correct this, I added uprights and painted them bright, fluorescent orange.
Then, one day, I hit on an idea: I added markers on the tailgate itself that line up with each of the uprights.

Eureka!
This simple thing now offers me a visual aid as the trailer heads down the ramp.
Looks goofy, sure. Laugh if you wanna... I'm good with that.
But it helps me, and and that's what matters.





Headin' Out

Stick around, because there is more! Episode 2 awaits at the ling below:

Toad Machine Tales, Episode 2





I hope you enjoyed this and learned something from it. I get nothing from this other than the satisfaction of a job well done, so if you enjoyed it, a like and share is appreciated.
And if you are inclined, feel free to join our no-drama, no-hype Facebook group:

(click the  link)


Thanks for reading and Tight Lines,

David

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