Channel Cats On Dip Bait

    It doesn’t get more Midwest than this…at least in the southern portion of the area. Remember opening up one of those tubs of cheese or blood bait for the first time? It practically made your eyes water..., or worse.     Sporting goods stores and tackle shops probably hated when a customer did that - but those baits did work.                  Longtime guide, outdoor writer and Fishing Hall of Famer, Ted Peck, with a 1990 piece on channel cats and dip baits, from back when magazines started recognizing and writing more detailed articles on catfish in general....

Highlights:

Dip baits (short plastic worms with ridges that are anointed with a catfish-attracting mixture) have been catfish killers in some parts of the country for years. Doc's catfish bait, a product of Iowa, has been around since the 1920s. Other dip baits with local favor like Sonny's, G&S, Ol' Whiskers and Dunkers of a more modern genre work magic on catfish, too. Even Wlamsrt sells these baits, nowadays.

The basic spincast tackle back then is the same gear we still have today. You don't need anything fancy for catfish. But the gear had better have guts. A Zebco 404 mounted on a seven-foot, nedium rod is ideal. Twelve-pound-test mono will get the job done. If a worm gets hung up, a steady pull will usually retrieve it without spooking the fish.

Terminal tackle is just as simple. An assortment of egg-shaped slip-sinkers from 1/16 to 3/8-ounce, some snap-swivels and a roll of paper towels is about all you need, other than a good assortment of treble-tailed dip worms in different colors. (The paper towels are to make sure the soft plastic worms are completely dry before dunking then in the bait.)

An eighth-ounce sinker is usually the most effective weight to use when fishing from a boat. This sinker is heavy enough to maintain contact with the bottom, but isnt so heavy that it digs into every snag tha comes along.

Channel catish genrally prefer a bit of a current and fairly clean bottom, preferably with sand or rock-rubble substrata. In lakes, this is achieved by fishing on windward shores where the wind-pushed waters create movement and stack food. In rivers look for slack areas along the edge of the main flow. In either case, the fish tend to spend their time relating to deeper areas, called "holes."     Frequently these holes are created by an obstruction like a deadfall or the current itself, like an outside bend of the river.

In cold water, try mixing the bait with mineral or cooking oil to get the desired consistency. In warmer water the bait may become too runny and not adhere to the hook. In this case, just put the bait in the shade or an ice-filled cooler next to your lunch to remedy the problem. Mixing in a little corn meal also works.

Diagram:

(1) indicates catfish position between 6-8 a.m. and 8-9 p.m. in midsummer.

(2) shows their likely location between 8-10 a.m. and 7-8 p.m.

(3) indicates where they are most apt to be found during the midday hours of 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

(4) is a great low light and after-dark feeding area.

(5) is a night area. Note boat positions to properly fish the various feeding and staging areas.

Are Catfish Colorblind? NO!

The Color Preference of Catfish

by

Caitlin Young

8th Grade

Muller Road Middle School
Blythewood, South Carolina

    My experiment is on the color preference of catfish.
    
Discussion
    Most people think that catfish only feed by touch and smell and are not visual feeders. But this is not entirely true; most catfish have at least adequate eyesight. All catfish are highly evolved creatures, with complex senses. Channel catfish, in particular, have good eyesight and are known to be very visual feeders under the right conditions. So, I decided to put that to the test.
    The common misconception is that catfish are lazy bottom feeders that eat only rotten, putrefied food that stinks. Supposedly, they find this disgusting buffet using only their whiskers and highly developed sense of smell. I thought it would be interesting to see if they might also utilize their eyesight to determine what they’re going to feed on.
    It’s already well known that the structure of the eye in many fishes is similar to the human eye. This is especially the case with freshwater fishese like catfish. Their eyes ususally contain rods and cones like our eyes, which allows them to pick up color. With this in my mind, my experiment was designed to answer two questions:

• Is color a factor to catfish in feeding preference?
• If color was a factor, which color triggers more bites?

    I did some background research and found the top four colors that catfish were rumored to like. Then I hand-tied a basic Wooly Bugger-style fly in those exact colors. The top four colors are:

• Black
• Blue
• Pink
• Chartreuse

Hand Tied Flies 

    Then I made a chart with three vertical columns and four horizontal rows. The rows were for the colors and the columns were for the number of trial tests I would run.

    Now, I needed some fish.

    I couldn't rely on the natural environment to provide these fish; it lacked control. And all science experimentation relies in the element of control.
What to do?
    Luckily, I found the Cohen Campbell Fisheries Center outside Columbia, South Carolina. It turns out they had catfish they use for stocking waters in the state. These fish are housed in tank that would be just the right size, with good water clarity. This allowed me to conduct my experiment under observable, controlled conditions. The people at the Campbell Center were also very accommodating, because, as far as they knew, no one had done a study like this on catfish. Other fishes like bass, yes.
But not catfish, specifically. 
    Many tests and studies have been done on scents and the catfishes sense of smell. But there is precious little concern about their eyesight. Some anecdotal information exists, but it is entirely unreliable. Ask four fishermen which color works best, and you’ll get four different answers.  Scientific studies, however, were in short supply.
    I decided to use science to prove once and for all which color catfish actually prefer. For all I knew, I could be the first to attempt this. For this reason, the folks at the Campbell center were keenly interested and placed their facility at my disposal.

METHOD: I would run each of the flies through the holding tank, a set number of times. I would then record the reaction if the fish to each color.

SUMMARY: At the end of the experiment, I learned that that catfish do, indeed, have a color preference. They overwhelmingly chose blue, which confirmed the hypothesis I will present later. Chartreuse was a close second, followed by black, with pink coming in last.

THE EXPERIMENT: This experiment uses four different colors of flies (hook removed) and each was tested with a group of catfish in a controlled environment.
Each fly is to be pulled through a tank containing several thousand catfish the same number of times. Each time a fish bites a fly, it will be counted.

THE HYPOTHESIS: My hypothesis is that IF catfish do have a color preference, then the color will be blue. This is based on the research that I did about the structure of the eye; I concluded that channel catfish not only “smell” their way to food, but are also visual predators. Their eyes respond mostly to greens and blues, because those colors reflect the most light under most water conditions.
My research also revealed that blue is the last color of the spectrum to disappear underwater, the deeper you go. And since catfish mostly inhabit the waters close to the bottom, I hypothesized that blue will be the color they see the most and so will be their favorite color.

MATERIALS:

• One fishing pole and reel spooled with four-pound-test clear monofilament line.
• Four flies that I tied myself.
  In an effort to ensure consistency, I tied one style fly only, in the following colors:
  one blue, one pink, one green, and one black.
• A 15’ x 10’ concrete holding tank located at the Cohen Campbell Fish Hatchery.
• Approximately 4,000 channel catfish (based on the count provided by the hatcher manager).
• A wire spreader bar with three attachments for flies.
• A tracking graph and a pencil.

METHODS: I tied four flies in the following colors; pink, blue, black and chartreuse. I cut OFF the hook points off so I would not hurt the fish, or slow down the process. I was only interested in the number of takes, or "hits," each fly would receive.

    The first thing I did when I got to the tank was tie a pink fly onto the fishing line and slowly pulled the fly through the length of a 15’ x 10’ tank 15 times. Each time the fly was hit by a  fish, I recorded it, and tallied the total number of hits for each run.
    I repeated this process two more times, for a total of three runs.
   Next, I repeated the entire process with each of the other three colors.
    I totaled all of the strikes for each color to determine the favorite color of fly the catfish preferred.

Caitlin Young performing one of her color tests.

VERIFICATION: After everything was totaled from the first tests, I verified the results with Part 2 of the test.

    For this, I employed a spreader bar, used to run THREE flies together at the same time. I put the least favorite color (pink) and the second leading color (chartreuse) on the outsides of the bar, and the favorite (blue) in the middle of the bar. This way, the fish would be forced to bypass the two brighter colors on the outside, in favor of the blue one in the middle.
    I made one run of 15 passes using the spreader bar and counted the number of times the fish targeted each color. I took the total number of strikes from the spreader bar test to either confirm or disprove my original findings.

PART 2 RESULTS:
    The pink fly garnered only 119 bites, and came in last place.
    Black was the second least favorite, gathering 137 bites. (Black is considered a "neutral" color. Most fishermen guessed that black would have done better than it did in my experiment.)
    Chartreuse again came in a close second, with 140 total bites.
    However, the blue fly was the overall favorite color with a total of 153 bites.

A helpful test fish

    My hypothesis was supported by this experiment. Even though my numbers confirmed that blue was the preferred color, the spreader bar helped to either confirm (or disprove) my original findings.
Even with the two brighter colors on the outside of the spreader bar, and seemingly easier to target, the fish still overwhelmingly targeted the blue fly. They hit the blue fly 21 times versus 10 hits on the pink and 13 hits for chartreuse. I was proven right that even with the two brightest colors on the outside, the fish would deliberately target the favored color in the middle.
    I was impressed, really, that even with the three flies so close together, the fish still went after the blue one. It would have been easier to bite either of the two flies on the outside, but they really went after that blue one. That really helped illustrate the color preference.

NOTES ON SCENT: I did one more test, apart from this experiment, solely out of curiosity.
     My presentation was designed solely around color, so I had to leave the element of scent out of the original experiment. But, since catfish are renowned for their sense of smell, it seemed useful to include something “smelly” in the experiment. Besides, I really wanted to see how much of a factor scent was.

    So I obtained some scented gel; Pro Cure’s “Nightcrawler Super Gel.”
I would use the blue fly, since it was the most popular. I tied a second blue fly as my control, and it would be UNSCENTED.
Then I ran them side by side, one with gel applied, and one without. Then, I counted how many hits each fly got.
    The results were overwhelming! The scented blue fly, took 135 hits, compared to only 36 for the unscented one. Then, again separate from my original experiment, I went back to the spreader bar and added the Super Gel scent to the outer pink fly.
    I left the unscented blue fly in the middle, and an unscented chartreuse fly on the other side. Surprisingly, the unscented blue fly outperformed even the scented pink one! That really convinced me just how much of a factor color can be.

CONCLUSION: My hypothesis was proven correct and backed up by the data from both the single runs and the run with the spreader bar. After researching how colors are seen underwater, it makes sense that blue would be the preferred color and they would react to it best.

1. Blue is the last color in the color spectrum to disappear under water.
2. Blue is also a color found on many of the baitfish that channel catfish feed on like herring and shad.        By putting three colors on one spreader bar only inches apart, I convincingly illustrated the fish’s preference for blue. Considering that blue remains visible, even in deep water, and after reviewing the validation of my tests, it seems hard to dispute my results.
    WE should also mention the second place winner, Chartreuse. Its appeal is understandable, since it is withint the spectrum of fluorescent colors, and is one the most easily seen colors under water. We have a saying here in the South - “If it aint chartreuse, it aint no use!” Apparently, that is not far from the truth.
    Why was pink such a dud? I can only surmise that, sinc pink is closely associated with red - and red spectrum colors are the first to fade under water.
    Black is a pretty neutral color, and many prey items are dark or black, its third place ranking is not all that surprising.

    After these tests, it seems obvious that catfish do actually have a color preference.
    This could change the way fishing companies develop and produce their products. In addition, it could increase sales in blue baits and flies. This kind of information can also help fishermen pick the right color when they’re fishing and increase the number of fish they catch. Fishing companies could also increase sales if the production of blue baits are increased and the public is made aware of my findings.
    There were no problems with my experiment, and everything went as planned. The people at Cohen Campbell Hatchery were fantastic to work with and very accommodating. My hearty thanks go out to them for their support.

Caitlin Young and the test tank for her research.

Sources

Uwphotographyguide.com: Underwater photography lighting fundamentals. “Which colors disappear first underwater?” Color spectrum by wavelength.

Scuba-tutor.com: Effects of water density on color and water absorption of color. Why some underwater photos seem washed out with blues. This is where I found that that the chart shows that reveals blue shades are absorbed last with reds being the first to be absorbed and disappear underwater.

Midwest Outdoors Magazine, June 2010 issue: “Does Color Make a Difference to Fish?” by Justin Hoffman.

Lane Hite, Hatchery Manager for Cohen Campbell Fish Hatchery.
PS: His own theory of color led him to choose the Pink fly.

LEARNING THE LAKE

Often when I say you have to, "learn the lake," it puzzles people and they say something like ....
"Okay, but how do you do that? You say the best way is to actually go out and cast it - but where to begin?”
Thats a fair question, and it deserves an explanation. So, lets open it up a little and unpack a method you can follow.

    Key Point: First, remember that 90% of the water is devoid of fish. So the goal is not to hit all the water, but to sift it methodically, and uncover the 10% of the water where the greatest number fish actually live. 

✅ With that in mind, get yourself a hydrographic map of the lake. If the lake doesn't have one, or you cant find one, you'll have to wing it. But you're still still not unarmed becasue you have your brain and your eyes, and you can think.
Stay with me and you'll see how to use all these tools to your advantage.

✅ Now with map in hand, look it over to determine the average depth of the lake, or the average depth of a smaller section area of a large lake. Sometimes this is marked right on the map, but if not, don't worry. Just look it over and get the general idea.
If theres no map, pretned to you have one. Now, do the same thing you would do with a map, using the shoreline slopes, points, grades and features as your guide.
This takes a little imagination and may not be obvious right away. But study the shoreline and mentally picture what it must be doing after it slopes into the water. 

✅ If the map reveals that the average depth is less than 20 feet, consider the lake shallow. With that knowledge, you can be pretty sure most of the larger fish will be concetrated around the deeper sections  of the lake.
No map? Dont sweat it right now. Keep reading.

✅ If the lake depth is 20 feet or more, on the average, consider it deep, and most of the action will occur around shallow-water breaklines. That is to say, along the depth changes that parallel the shore and lead from deep water to shallow.
If you have no map, you just discovered one of the best secrets you can have: Find the depth break lines and use them as your guide. 

✅ In the case of a shallow lake, or shallow section of a lake, read the wind and use it to set up a drift that carries you over the deeper spots, the breaklines and good-looking areas such as weed beds, reefs, sunken timber, channels, etc., and fan-cast the area.

✅ In the case of a deep lake, use your depth finder to navigate along a 10-foot breakline.
From that vantage point, cast to the shallow side of the break, then parallel to the break, and finally off the seaward side of the boat, straight out from the break..., gradually moving along on your electric motor.
Key Point: to do this casting, use lures that will "tip" along the bottom - not run in empty, fishless water.
You dont want the lures plowing down into the bottom, but staying within the 1 Foot Contact Zone 

Alright, let's imagine you don't have a hydrographic map. After reading through this, you should see that its still possible to work the lake in this general way. Usually, the shoreline will give you all the indications you need to know how the bottom is formed beyond it.
- For example, head to the nearest creek arm. Then, look at the shore and see how it slopes into the water. Its probably fairly shallow, and you can assume the bottom slopes down the same way beneath the water. From there, you'll hunt for the channel in the center - that's the deep section wherre the bigger fish spend most of their time. Hwo to find it? Use your depth finder to find the channel.
Points along the shore will extend out from shore towards the channel, too, and they will have depth breaks all the way around them. 
Coves and small inlets along the shore of this creek arm will have a, "front door," that leads to the channel, and you can work that, using the 10' break line along the front of the cove as your starting point.
- Next, you can parallel the shoreline along the 10' breakline, with your depth sounder, and you can work that by casting as described above.
- Lastly, you can join all the other guys banging the banks and mud line. Hey, you might get lucky there!

That's three separate options, and you've covered all the pertinent water in the area.
In doing it this methodical way, you will come to, "learn the lake"  - and almost always you'll come upon productive spots to mark for the next time you are on that BOW.  

Source: Jim Gamlin's Secret System To Catch Big Fish
MidWest Outdoors, Ltd., 1986
Taken from Facebook Group, "Structure Cafe"
Edits and additions, my own.

Suspended Fish...The Key

    We talk about this alot on this page. Its been the rule since men started fishing with hook and line. You can summarize it this way:

"90% of the water in which we fish is devoid of fish. The other 10% MAY hold fish - if there is something for them to relate to. That is either cover, or structure. And the greatest structural feature they 

relate to is the some on YOU relate to...the bottom (or the ground on our case)."

    I remember the fold-out booklet that once came with all Helin Flatfish lures - it was a virtual fishing education. And that little tome always stressed the "Golden Zone"...the area within 1 foot of the bottom. That is where you can find the best fish most of the time. They may be elsewhere SOME of the time, and we may need to seek them in these places.
   
With that in mind lests contionue this disccusion....

"FISH THE BOTTOM - is a mighty good rule. 

✅ We have preached this ,for over five years, and we don't retract one word of any 'on the bottom' advice that we have ever published. This is the place to do most of your fishing. Don't ever forget it. BUT...

👉 As you progress in use of fish knowledge, you can take advantage of situations that SOMETIMES on SOME waters will fill your stringer, when fishing 'on the bottom' or 'out of the weeds' methods aren't working.

👉 As you progress AND THINK, you will recognize that these seeming exceptions really are just a variation of basic rules that never change. Just as fish movements relate to structure, you relate your catches to the 'rules.' You will be surprised at the pattern that will develop.

👉 Sometimes, not so often, walleyes, northerns, and Kentucky (spotted bass) do suspend. Bass probably will in some waters, depending on what the forage is foing. Crappies and white bass generally do. However, when suspended, these fish relate to structure...maybe a few feet or quite a few feet away.

👉 How do you know when they are doing this? How do you find them? Well, by instinct, by knowing your lake, by your electronic sonar, and by trial and error.

✅ Either way, this knowledge is most useful. Tuck it away and give thanks to Wiley Miller for this fine sketch."

Source: Fishing Facts and Secrets
August 1969

Edge of the Weeds

 Lake Weed-Edge Basics 

Weeds and weedlines come and go, always changing due to the forces of nature, weather and water conditions - but the basics of how fish relate to them seems to stay fairly constant. 

Here’s a primer on a typical natural lake, and the many weededge situations an angler might come across as diagrammed in In-Fisherman magazine over 35 years ago. This can also apply to man-made lakes, if the angler views SECTIONS of the lake as micro-environments.

A - Widely spaced, uneven contour lines foster a jagged weed-edge; look for points, pockets, lots of bass-holding cover.

B - Troughs are prime feeding areas and migration routes for bass.

C - Check inside edges on large flats. Inside edge can hold more bass than an outside edge.

D - A 10-foot-deep hole on a flat = bass magnet...especially if deep water is nearby 

E - Hole near drop-off creates a saddle, always attractive to fish.

F - Close, straight contour lines usually mean weed walls. Fish quickly by cranking parallel to the wall. Inside edges aren't as likely to hold fish.

G - A tight inside bend, a likely area for a curved weed wall. Search for active bass.

H - Weedy points near deep hole; must be checked for weed clumps just off main weedlines.

I - Hump on a flat, an excellent shallow bass attractor.

J - A large flat usually offers a variety of structural elements that attract and hold bass.

K - A small flat, not likely to hold many bass in contrast to "J".

L - A clean lip where weeds end abruptly and the point slopes gradually toward the drop-off.

M - A big offshore hump (sunken island) offering these fine weed-edge possibilities: sloping point; small clean lip; sharp drop for weed wall; wider contours for a jagged weededge; possibility of thick clumps on sloping, main-lake side; and a bald spot on top.

Where The Fish Are!

 

Contour Maps Made Easy (1971)

Editor Don Woodruff takes a detailed look at the best areas to focus your efforts on in a typical lake by using contour maps. Fishing Facts was one of the earliest proponents for anglers using these maps to help them eliminate empty water and locate key fish holding structure. With Hi-def mapping software available these days, everyone can find the obvious structures in a body of water, so locating nuances (“sneaky spots”) has become much more important.

FISHING STRUCTURE 1️⃣ - This is a long bar, fairly shallow on the east side, with a gradual sloping descent to deep water on most of the west portion. On the northwest tip, however, the contour lines come close together, dropping steeply from 5 ft. to 40 ft. Somewhere on this northwest tip, the schools of fish in that area will have their migration route. Here with one exception, the fisherman should concentrate his fishing time.

FISH STRUCTURE 2️⃣ - Here is a good structure because there is only one potential migration route from the deep water hole of 50 ft. All of the schools of fish using that section of deep water for a sanctuary, will migrate to that area. Fish WILL NOT move across wide expanses of gradual sloping shoreline. If a fisherman caught a fish in the area marked (A), he can rest assured that it came around the lake from the "scatter point" in area #2. That fish was probably one of dozens that actually moved up. As a structure fisherman you can see the benefit in concentrating your fishing in area #2, presenting your lure or bait to not one, but dozens, maybe hundreds of fish, instead of waiting and hoping for one or two fish to scatter from the migration route, eventually finding their way to wherever you might be.

FISH STRUCTURE 3️⃣ - This is the classic underwater island, a high knob or raised portion of the lake bottom. Frequently these structures are small, some measuring in feet rather than in yards. For this very reason, you should check them out carefully. Many, if not most fishermen, may not even be aware of their existence, providing you with virgin fishing as you would only expect in a fly-in area of Canada!

FISH STRUCTURE 4️⃣ - A typical finger-like bar, attached to the shore, running far out into the lake, then dropping suddenly to the deep. These are probably the easiest structures to find, and the greatest fishing pressure is usually to be found here. But don't write it off! Because it is far from shore, most fishermen without depth finders cannot locate the break to deep water, and many fishermen do not feel at ease fishing mid-lake structure. They have been brought up to the tradition of fishing shorelines. Without that physical presence of the shoreline, they cannot feel at ease or have confidence in their ability to catch fish… On a structure such as #4, be alert for breaks, and migration routes along the entire periphery of the structure. Although this map would indicate the break is on the tip, at times it will be on the sides, not near the end of the bar.

FISH STRUCTURE 5️⃣ - This is just such a side migration route. More than likely, both areas #4 and #5, would be migration routes for two separate schools of fish, because of the distance between them. If casting artificial lures or live bait, I would suggest anchoring your boat in 5 to 10 ft. of water, making your cast to the deep water area. When your lure or bait hits the water, feed line freely from your reel by hand so the lure sinks straight down, (not swinging like a pendulum back towards your boat). When it has reached bottom, take up your slack and start the retrieve up the break or structure.

FISH STRUCTURE 6️⃣ - This one seems to be a good potential structure because there is no better structure in that area. The break is not as sharp as I would prefer to fish, as is #7, but it is the only noticeable break in the area, and fish in that section would use it.

FISH STRUCTURE 7️⃣ - This is similar to #4 in that it is a finger-like bar structure. It is the sharpest break in the lake and one I would certainly check out care-fully, starting in the hot months of summer and throughout the fall fishing season. Because of its deep break, this should be a particularly good structure to fish in the late afternoon and early evening, as its steep break provides early shadows from the setting sun, allowing the fish to move up earlier.

Water Depth Tutorial

 

Spoonplugging Concept: Bass, Weeds and Water Depth - 1981

✅ [The first] figure is a side view of a shallow section of a lake (could be a slough, canal, etc.). You will note the deepest water available is only 8 feet. In this case, weeds cover all water under 6-7 feet in depth. This "cover" could provide the fish sanctuary up to a point. If you remove this cover, you are not likely to find any fish here for long. If you are fishing such cover, you would try to find the deepest water under the cover. But when good movement occurs, the fish will move to the open water. This situation doesn't hold out much hope for good fishing or for many big fish over a period of time. It's just too shallow (for most of the country).

✅ The [second] figure… is another side view of a similar situation, but in this case the weeds go down to 14 feet. The "open" water (free of weeds) is only slightly deeper. Here again, the sanctuary is likely to be in the weeds. But if this open water gets beyond 20 feet or better, then you begin to figure the sanctuary is in the open water. 

✅ It's a simple case of the deeper water having a more "stable" condition. A fish can adapt to a changed environment, but the less changing the better. Deep water is the only reliable escape route he has from a changing environment. If he doesn't have it, he might survive in some manner, but it's not likely to be good fishing for you and me. 

✅ Fish in this situation have little escape from extremes of weather (and water conditions). They can become more dormant, and for a longer period of time, than those in the deep water which helps offset the effects of bad weather. We may have to go deeper for them, but at least they become active enough to catch. Whereas, in shallow weed situations we could beat our brains out until there is a great improvement in the weather.

Buck Perry - Home Study Series

Follow Breaklines

 Follow Those Breaklines!

✅ Some veteran smallmouth anglers have had successful outings turn even more successful employing the following procedure. When the school of bass stops hitting, the anglers pick up their anchors, turn on their depth finders and by following the breakline (drop-off) are able to find the entire school once again. In these instances the school had not returned to deeper water but merely moved further down along the breakline. The schools were large enough to be seen on the depth finder and therefore contact was made a second time.

✅ Normally we don't recommend using your depth finder to run around looking for schools of fish. It is wiser to locate good structure first. Don't worry, if indeed it is good structure the fish will use it. Once the shape of the structure is known and the fish have moved to it, it would be wise to check out the remaining area for any straggler fish before you go rushing off to another area.

Carl Malz

Fishing Facts

May 1973