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Monday, April 30, 2018

Trout Flies and Fly Fishing In the Southern Appalachians

Flies and Fly Fishing In the Southern Appalachians

David Hutton, Palmetto Fly N Fish ©
Posted originally, May 17, 2016

One of our facebook group members, from Augusta GA, was wondering what flies he should tie for trout in our part of the country, aka, the Southeastern United States.
More specifically, flies for Southern Appalachian trout streams.
Through some great cosmic coincidence, I discovered the book, "Trout Streams of Southern Appalachia," at the public library that same day. What follows is the condensed version of the chapter on, "Hatches And Flies"...

"The usual image of a fly fisherman is a glassy eyed fellow in flop hat and waders, intent on the insects found in the waters he's fishing. Part entomologist, part craftsman, part mystic wizard, his sole aim is to duplicate the insects hatching at any given moment.
However, this scenario is far more prevalent on the fertile spring creeks, limestone, and freestone streams of the West and Northeast.

By comparison, the fly fisherman on the streams of South Appalachia will find relatively infertile, freestone flows. Now, this isn't to say these streams are devoid of critters for fish to feed upon. On the contrary, they support a smorgasbord of insect life.
But these insects are found in comparatively small numbers, and even more importantly, the hatches that do exist are sporadic and unpredictable. Added to this is the rough-and-tumble nature of the streams in this region.
Examined this way, the foraging picture for trout in SE Appalachian trout streams can be summarized thus:

"A variety of insects, in no great number, appearing unpredictably, sweeping rapidly by in swift currents."

Under these conditions, the fish aren't too keyed on only certain foods.
Indeed, they are more inclined to take what comes, when it comes. This means a degree in entomology isn't needed.
Of greater importance, in fact, is skill at stream stalking, reading the streams you encounter, and casting in tight quarters.
These will be more important than how perfectly you mimic an Ephemeral Eastern Greenback Double-Winged Zipper.
Accepting this... and you may as well accept it... we can now look at the feeding opportunities for trout in Southern Appalachian freestone streams.

HOOK SIZES
No elaborate ranges here; it's really a small selection when compared to what we THINK we must have. In short, here are the sizes you need to consider:
- Sizes 12 and 14 for dry Flies
Sizes 8-14, for nymphs and wet flies
That's it. These will allow mastery over the bulk of the conditions found in Southern Appalachia.

INSECT TYPES
1.Trichoptera – caddis flies
These form the backbone of aquatics found in most creeks. Turn over a few rocks and you'll find the case-building caddis nymphs clinging there, while emerging adults may be seen at any time from spring through fall.
Trout show a preference for the swept-wing dry flies that mimic caddis, simply because they are used to seeing the adults. They also don't show a distinct preference to one color or another. If a gray fly will take them, a green one probably will, too. A few basic floating caddis dry's are called for:
"Elk Hair Caddis"
"Chuck Caddis" (woodchuck)
"Royal Trude"
"Swept hair" wing caddis types
"Tent wing" caddis types
Flies to imitate the cased caddis nymph's may also catch trout in the creeks. The fish know them as food and they'll pounce them should they see them sweeping by. However, these nymphs don't often get knocked loose from their rocky homes, so they aren't high on the menu. Most anglers don't bother with them, for good reason.

2. Ephemeroptera – mayflies
These are the second most important of the aquatic winged insects. 
In the warm months they are common; their upright wings easy to spot. They also share the same habitat as the caddis, and often overlap hatches with the latter. But, their hatches are no more predictable or numerous. Some exceptions occur, of course, on a local basis, but nothing to hang your hat on.
Thus, a general selection of flies to imitate adult mayflies, and perhaps a few variations, are all that are needed. Here are a few recommended types:
"Royal Wulff"
"Adams"
"Light Cahill"
"Humpy"

Mayfly nymphs are free roaming, unlike the anchored caddis larvae. This means the fish see them frequently. They are small, though, with hook sizes 14-16 being standard. Nevertheless, they're worth imitating and some good all-purpose patterns for these are:
"Gold Ribbed Hares Ear"
"Pheasant Tail"
"Tellico Nymph" (these originated in eastern Tennesee)

3. Plecoptera – stone flies
While these are common in number, they are less important than the previous two. 
Their life-cycle has them living on the stream bed, among the rocks, until they crawl along the bottom and onto shore or twigs for emergence.
Subsequently, the adult flies appear on the water but rarely, so they don't figure much as a forage for the trout.
The nymphs however, are another matter. They are in the water with the trout, they're mobile and available, especially when moving toward the shore to emerge.
They are also quite hefty by nymph standards, so trout relish them.
They are generally tied on a weighted, #10 - #8 hook; big by small stream standards.
Two flies that are often tied to mimic them are:
"Ted's Stone," a brown chenille version
"Montana Stone," a black version

TERRESTRIALS
This category is the ringer in the game, and at least as important as any of the aquatics.
Oddly, terrestrials make up what might be the only reliable "hatch" to be found on the small Southern Appalachian flows.
This is to say that from Spring, through Summer, and into Fall, all manner of beetles, moths, bees, wasps, leaf-hoppers, spiders, crickets, grasshoppers, and ants fall, or are blown, into the water.
Obviously, the trout are on the lookout for this bounty.

Stomach surveys of trout in the region reveal that the most commonly eaten insect is... drum roll please - the ordinary black ant.
They are found in virtually every trout checked, often in great numbers and to the exclusion of other forage types.
Dry and wet imitations of these ants are requisite in every fly wallet.
Whip up some beetles and a few generic hoppers to keep the ants company, and your "land bug" quiver should be adequate.

MINNOWS and CRAYFISH
No forage list would be complete without these two, relatively large, food items.
Smaller trout may be shy around these, but the larger specimens most definitely are not.
To imitate them, STREAMER flies are the obvious choice.
Now, its been said that all fly-fishermen have some streamers tucked away... which they almost never use. More is the pity.
Almost any streamer pattern stands a good chance of attracting trout on Southern streams if it is sized right, and presented enticingly in the right places.
Muddler Minnow. Tied in a tan/brown color palette, with a few wraps of lead wire, this fly can be made to achieve neutral, or slightly negative buoyancy. This means it doesn't sink fast, and it doesn't float at the surface. It is this ability to suspend in the water that seems to draw strikes from the trout, and which gives it an edge over other streamers.
Additionally, the colors from tan to brown, effectively mimic both the minnows and crawfish found in the mountain streams.
(I don't see how we can leave out the Woolly Bugger in this portion of the discussion, either. Black, olive and tan/brown should suffice - David)

Having now made some bold statements about flies for Southern Appalachian waters, I'd like to add a disclaimer. Every fly caster, no matter where he lives, has his favorite patterns. These patterns are fished regularly enough that they are considered fish getters by their owner. I recognize that.
In recommending the ones mentioned here, I am sharing what has worked for me, and what I see on the leaders and fly patches of other successful Southern trouters.
I also recognize that, to an experienced trout man, this discussion is superficial, even overly simplified. That is by design. If you recall, I stated up front that this is a different sort of fly fishing.
In this part of the country, you only need remember a few things:
- Be opportunistic like the fish - don't wait on sporadic, unpredictable "hatch" feeding
- Be mindful of stream approach and stalking
- Be able to cast accurately along cloistered banks
- Fish buoyant, visible dry flies, a few wet/nymph styles, and a few right sized streamers.
Do these things and you'll have as much action as you can take."

That’s me for reading. I hope you like it, and will share it with your friends.

David
Palmetto Fly n Fish
©All rights reserved

- Adapted by me, from the book, "Trout Streams of Southern Appalchia," 3rd edition, by Jimmy Jacobs.

ANGLERS NOTEBOOK


ANGLERS NOTEBOOK


Make sure that proper tension is applied when loading new monofilament on a reel. Too little tension leaves loops and overlapping coils; too much tension packs the line too tightly.

Spinners are best fished upstream and across the current. Cast at a diagonal toward the opposite shore and reel it back at the same rate it's being tumbled by the current.

Always wet your hands before handling a fish, especially a smooth-scaled trout, if you plan to release it. Wet hands remove less of the natural coating that protects a fish's skin.

Most fly fishermen agree that dark flies generally work best in the early spring; lighter flies later in the season.

Suckers are some of the first fish caught in Spring. Although they're bony, sucker flesh is white, firm, flaky and sweet when taken from cold water. Skinned, poached, and deboned, the meat makes an excellent base for fish cakes.

If you're fishing with minnows, gradually replace the water in the bucket with water from the stream or lake when you arrive at your fishing site. Minnows that are subjected to quick temperature changes often die, or if on the end of a hook, become lethargic and impart little action if the temperature change is too rapid.

If your line goes slack after a solid strike, don't relax. Often it indicates that the fish is moving toward you and quick reeling, to regain tension, is in order.

A common trout fishing mistake is to use a bait hook that's too large. Most anglers agree that a size 6 or 8 hook is ideal for catching stream trout. This also goes for most fishing in general - hooks that are too large will prevent catching fish. 

PA Angler Apr 1989

Tying Tapered Leaders


Tying Tapered Leaders
Based on the formulas of A.J. McClane
by Jack Montague, sent from The Wolfglen Fly Fishing Center, Punta Gorda, FL

NOTE - best viewed on a PC or laptop screen

From post-WWII America through the early 90's, Albert Jules McClane, was the most familiar and respected byline in angling literature. Known to the world as, "A.J.," he was the fishing editor of Field & Stream magazine, and wrote more than 20 books. 
Considered fishings' Renaissance Man, McClane strode past the boundaries of fishing, alone. He was a writer, fly-tier, artist, photographer, explorer, gourmet chef, raconteur....few in angling history was ever wiser, more resourceful or more visionary.

On the subject of leaders, McClane was very specific. He covered everything from dyeing leaders with coffee or tea (a common practice at the time)*, to successfully constructing a proper leader. Along these lines, and the focus of this article, he recommended building leaders with a 60/20/20 composition. 
This simply means:

  • 60% of the leader is a stiff butt, as an extension of the line
  • 20% tapering from the butt
  • 20% tapering to the tippet
This is the general starting point; fine tuning for various reasons will follow from there.

Stiff and Stiffer
Where we say the word, "stiff," in this context, we want to keep in mind that a stiff leader butt is good...to a point. 

Years ago, most commercial leaders had butt sections that were far too short and light. 
So people got the idea that "a stiff butt is good, so an even stiffer one must be better." 
I mean who doesn't like a stiff butt? 

But, once your leaders' butt section matches, or exceeds, the stiffness of the line's tip, it soon becomes counter productive. 

Think of your line as a whip unrolling (not snapping), with a continuous, consistent taper on the end section. 
With the proper consistency along the entire taper, the line and leader unroll smoothly. 
However, if you were to cut the whip where the leader joins, and insert a piece of soft rope, the unrolling loop would collapse at that point. 
On the other end of the extreme, if you inserted an overly stiff section 3/4 of the way to the tip, the whole thing wants to resist ANY smooth rolling out.

The resistance of a butt section that is too stiff can also damage your line. If you've ever experienced a fly line that develops concentric fracturing of the line's coating near the tip of the line, a too stiff butt is frequently a cause of this.
So, too stiff can be as bad as too soft.

Normally, 30 lb. test leader material is about the stiffness of most fly line tips. 
To make sure of this, simply tie your leader material to the fly line and grasp an inch on either side of the knot - now, push them evenly together. 
If the knot rises in the middle, they're the same stiffness. 
If the knot pushes to one side, or the other, it means that they vary in stiffness, with the knot being pushed in the direction of the more-limp material. 

This is an important test for the would-be leader crafter, because some "hard" mono’s are stiffer than the average 30 lb test line, and some are more limp. 
You can “push” the following formulas one way or the other as to leader strength to compensate for stiffness.

10 Foot Leaders - Bass and Salt water

Tippet, (lb. test)          Butt                  Taper                                                      Tippet
15                                4’ #30,              2’ #25,    2’ #20,                                    2’ #15
12                                4’ #30               2’ #2,5 1' #20, 1’ #15                            2’ #12
10                                4’ #30               2” #25 8” each #20/15/12                     2’ #10
8                                  4’ #30               2’ #25 6” each #20/15/12/10                2” #8
6                                  4’ #30               2’ #25 5” each 20/15/12/10, 6”# 8       22” #6
4                                  4” #30               2’ #25 4” each 20/25/12/10/8/ 6” #6    22” #4.

Once again, this and the formulas to follow aren't chiseled in stone. 
Note that the leaders are constructed with the end in mind - the tippet you are using is the point everything leads to. That's important to remember.

Odds are good if you're using these tippet sizes already, without any real problems, you probably have flies that generally match them. That is, you're not casting a feather duster on a 2 weight rod and line. 

But, size of fly and air resistance, wanting longer tippets for dead drift, etc. can create the need to fine tune things here, or there. 
These are your starting points. Hopefully, they will save you a bit on your own trial and error!

9 Foot leaders

Tippet            Butt Taper                                                                 Tippet
15                   65” 30#, 22” 25#, 22” 20#                                        22” 15#
12                   65” 30#, 22” 25#, 11” 20#, 11” 15#                         22” 12#
10                   65” 30#, 22” 25#, 7 ½” each 20/15/12#                   22” 10#
8                     65” 30#, 22” 25#, 6” each 20/15/12/10#                  22” 8#
6                     65” 30#, 22” 25#, 5” each 20/15/12/10#, 4” 8#       20” 6#
4                     65” 30#, 22" 25#, 4” each 20/15/12/10/8/6#            20" 4#

7 ½ Foot leaders

15                   36” 30#, 18”#25, 18” #20                                        18" 15#
12                   36” 30#, 18” 25#, 9” each 20/15#                            18” #12
10                   36” 30#, 18” 25#  6” each 20/15/12#                       18” #10
8                     38” 30#, 18” 25#  4 ½" each 20/15/12/10#              18” #8
6                     36” 30#, 18” 23#  3” each  20/15/12/10#, 6” #8      15” #6
4                     36” 30#, 18” 25#  3” each  20/15/12/10/8#,  6”#8   15” #4


* After much experimentation and observation, McClane concluded that dying your leader and tippet was maybe necessary, back in the days of silk gut construction. And there's no harm in doing it, if you still want to.
But it offers no advantage when using modern materials.

Saturday, April 28, 2018

Briminator

The Briminator

David Hutton, Palmetto Fly N' Fish
April 28, 2018




It seems appropriate that the first post on this blog be about the first fly I ever really understood - "The Briminator."

----------<~~>----------

    I tied other flies prior to the Briminator, mostly crude attempts to make dog hair and craft store feathers stay on a hook. But, it wasn't long before I learned how complex even a simple tie is.

But, the "Brimmie" came together to actually work... and I knew why. Hey, that was a big deal, then, and it still is!

FEW MATERIALS, EASY
    The Briminator name is a play on words - in the Southern US, we call bluegill, “brim,” a pronunciation variation on the name: “bream.”
Now take the name, "Terminator" (like in the futuristic movie) and jumble it up with, “brim-“ and voila! 
“The Briminator” is born.

    This pattern was designed as a, "challenge fly" by Ft. Worth tyer, Tony Guzman. The challenge was to use waste materials from around the bench in a meaningful way.

    From the beginning, the fly is a two material fly:

- Bead Chain Eyes
- One Feather

    They were originally made from a single feather, and that's how I learned to tie them. It is still the way I tie them, for the most part.
    For this pattern, I like a long-ish, pheasant body feather, the aptly-named "church window." I select those with plenty of the marabou-like under down at the base of a bird's body feather.

From there, the basic concept is this:

- First, tie the bead chain eyes behind the hook eye 

- Strip some of the marabou fluff away from the stem and use it to make a tail.

- More of the fluff is dubbed on the thread and wound on as a body. I often add a rib of wire or Krystal Flash, to protect the fragile fluff body.

- Next, add the hackle section of the feather around the "neck," behind the eyes.

- Finally, use the last of the fluff dubbed on to wrap a head.

    Not counting hook and thread, that's bead-chain eyes, and ONE feather. But there's no reason to stop there... you can use most any combination of feathers, dubbing, flash, and more.

    Most any proportionately-sized soft hackle feather will work, for example, and I've used many different types. Natural and dyed feathers can be used, and the cheapest, unimpressive stuff will work.

SAVE THE GOOD FEATHERS FOR SOMETHING ELSE
    On that subject, there is a trend going 'round to spend big money on feathers, and so increase your status points among those who are impressed by that.
It's the fly tying equivalent of a Rolex watch, I suppose.

    Some facebook fly shop pages even promote, and thrive, on this status game... for profit, of course.
    But you don't need more than a $5 hen cape from the bargain bin to make an effective Briminator... these are the kind of skins no high roller wants to admit he owns.
    These won't get you any status points, so you might want to keep it to yourself. But the fish wont be any wiser, and a sharp hook stuck in their mouth is the point, after all.

    Dubbing for the body can be of many kinds, too – all you really want to do is create a body where one should be.     Everything from commercial dubbing, to yarn, to fur from your family dog will work to build a dubbed body. So experiment beyond the one-feather idea and don't be too fussy about it.

THE EYES HAVE IT
    Finally, there are the bead chain eyes.
Here, I'm referring to standard bead-chain, like you see on a ceiling fan. Made into eyes on a Briminator, they become the defining element. 

    They're bulbous. 
    They leer at you from your fly box. 
    They protrude from the head in a cartoonish way.
    They really make it a "bug-eyed bug.”
    They are a must.

    
    You can use many feather and dubbing combinations, but it's not a Briminator without those big, ol' eyes.

    From an engineering standpoint, the slight weight of the bead chain eyes helps get the fly down from the surface. They don't sink like a rock; it is a slow, fish attracting descent.
    Plus, there's another technical advantage to the bead chain. If a light wire hook is used, like an Aberdeen or dry-fly hook, the weight of the bead chain makes the hook "flip" over, so the point rides up. They aren't snag-free this way, but it helps keep them out of trouble.
    If a faster sink is wanted, heftier, solid metal eyes sized for the job can be used instead.
    The eyes also give it a very strong resemblance to a dragonfly nymph, so it presents like a very common, and much relished food.

    And that is where the materials list ends.
    No, really, that's it.
    One feather, two at the most. Maybe a few scraps of this or that, and bead chain for eyes.

WHAT DO THEY REPRESENT?
    So, put all this together, and what you have is a fly that looks like a lot of aquatic critters, especially nymphs... while looking like nothing specific. And that is a hallmark of most proven patterns: they give the impression of food, not a precise reproduction.

- If you're trying to mimic a damsel fly nymph, use a small, long hook, like 3xl, and tie the fly slim and sparse.
- For a dragon fly nymph, use a shorter, stout hook and fatten it up.

    Tony Guzman, the fly's creator said this a few years ago:
“It is amazing to see that this many years after I created it for fishing the Paluxy River in Glen Rose, well, I still see people raving about this great little fly.
    I have used it for carp for well over 10 yrs, with great success. Just tie them a little larger (4-6), use some burnt orange dubbing, add a few rubber legs and use lead dumb-bell eyes to make sure it rides hook up, and you have a winning variation of the original Briminator.”


VERSATILITY

    To summarize what Mr.Guzman has said, we might say the Briminator is, “versatile.”
    Now, there are simpler flies you could tie. You could do nothing more then lay down a thread base and wrap a single hackle feather from rear to front. Nothing can be simpler, and it catches the fish
NOTE: I have a fly I call the “Murray Hackle Fly,” that is little more than that. You can see that here: 

Murray Hackle Fly

    But there is such a thing as too simple. After all, we fly tyers like a LITTLE bit of design and construction work, don't we?
    The Briminator gives you just enough of that, and it lends itself to variations..

    They can be tied in a range of sizes, from minuscule to massive. I've tied them on #4 bait hooks, for example – they look awesome, and bass like 'em that size.
    Or how about tying them dinky? I have some itsy-bitsy, 1mm bead chain that lets me tie a size 12-14 Briminator without too much trouble. Not that I like to torture myself tying such tiny things... but I can.

    What about longer hooks? Sure.
I have another fly I like to call, "The Long Dragon,” which is a Briminator on a Carlisle cricket hook! This variation has accounted for some of the biggest bluegill I've caught in recent memory.

    Did we mention changing the color? The standard is probably olive, but black and brown fit in the same somber palette. This way it is shaped, sized, and colored like some yummy aquatic nymph, most notably the dragonfly. It could also look like a small crayfish or leech, underwater, I suppose.
    Orange, yellow, red, pink also work, and if you vary the color into lighter hues - or plain white - it makes a good minnow-type mimic....almost a streamer.
    So, it is multifaceted.

    I have spent periods in a season where I fished nothing but Briminators in various sizes, colors and lengths.
You often hear the question, “....if you could only have one fly, what would it be?”
I'll take the Briminator, and tie it in many forms.

TYING INSTRUCTIONS, basic Briminator

1. Wrap about 5-6 turns of thread, about 1/4-1/3 back along the shaft behind the hook eye.
This forms a base for the eyes. Then tie two bead chain "eyes" to the shaft with a figure 8 wrap, and add a dot of super glue to the tie in to help keep the eyes from twisting.
HINT - Its easier if you leave the eyes attached to the length of bead chain until AFTER they are secured. Then just cut them free with a side cutters. No more fumbling!

2. Run the thread to the rear, just above the barb.
Tie marabou atop the hook at the barb, to form a tail NO LONGER than the length of the hook shank. Run thread back to the eyes.
“Paint” the shaft with head cement, and put a dab on the tail tie in point.
HINT - This makes the body wraps more durable.

3. Twist the remaining marabou into a sturdy "rope" and wind it forward to behind the eyes. Tie it off with thread wraps.

4. Prepare the soft hackle by gripping the very tip of the feather with your hackle pliers, and stroking back the fibers. The tiny little tip can now be tied in just behind eyes with a few tight wraps.

5. Grip the feathers base with hackle pliers and wrap it in right behind the eyes, 2-3 turns. No more is needed. Tie off with three wraps, give or take.

6. “Paint” the head area with a little head cement, as in step 3. Be sparing with the cement, and don't get any in the hooks' eye.

7. Dub the thread with a small bit of dubbing and wrap between the eyes with 2-3 figure-8 turns to form a head.

8. Finish with a whipped "nose" behind the hook eye.
I use head cement on the ending wraps. The choice is yours.

Fly Notes

A. The weight distribution of the bead chain eyes, tied as they are below the plane of the hook shank, often make the fly ride with the hook point up. This keeps it from snagging so much.
But this is dependent on the size of the hook and amount of materials added. Experiment if you need to until you get this action.

B. It is best fished near the bottom, around cover like wood, weeds, rocks, etc.

C. The Briminator can be tied large for bass (size # 2-4), and the range from size # 6-10 is probably best for sunfish.

Fishing Notes

    The fly sinks slowly, another draw for the sunfish. I most often fish it on a floating line, with a long leader and fluoro tippet. It is best fished parallel to the shore and cover in about 4-6 ft of water. It is often grabbed on its first fall after casting.

Once down, I strip it in short "bursts,"  so it rises and then sinks down again.
A small split shot also can be added to the leader/tippet knot to help get it down and keep it near bottom.

FROM THE FLY BOX - variations on a theme


Vermilion Briminator 


    "Vermillion" is a fancy word for, "orange."
    This variation uses inexpensive wool roving from the craft store, and some orange-dyed saddle hackle. T
he tail is formed from the fluffier hackle barbs at the bottom of the feather. Throw in a light wire hook, bead eyes and voila! A "Vermilion Briminator” is born!

Hook - #8 light wire Aberdeen, hook eye bent upwards
Thread - Black 
Eyes - Bronze bead chain
Tail - Hackle fiber w/Krystal flash
Body - Wool roving, dubbed
Hackle - orange, 
Finished with a black thread nose. 

I sometimes trim the hackle off the the top, so it looks more “leggy.” But it doesn't really seem to matter.

Dog Days Briminator


This one is named in honor of fellow float tuber, Greg McBill
I call it the "Dog Days Briminator" for a couple reasons

1. I've added a bit of lead below the hook shank, just behind the eyes.
This gives it deep swimming abilities for those "dog days" of Summer.

2. The body dubbing is soft under-fur..., brushed from my dogs butt!

    Like the Vermillion Briminator, the tail on the "Dog Days" is also formed of hackle barbs. This one is a bit bigger in keeping with the summer season - size #6

Hook - #6 light wire Aberdeen, hook eye bent upwards
Thread - Black 
Eyes - Bronze bead chain
Tail - Webby hackle fiber from collar feather
Body - Dog underfur
Hackle - furnace 
Also finished with a black thread nose. 

    If you haven't tried the Briminator - get to it!
    If you have, tell us what you think of it.

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    I hope you liked this and learned something. I have no idea how to make money from this writing stuff, so I go for a job well done. A like and share is appreciated, if you think I accomplished that. 


If the Briminator interests you, contact me about getting some for yourself ... dahutist@gmail.com

As always, Tight Lines! 

David Hutton
Palmetto Fly N Fish

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