MURRAY HACKLE FLIES

Simple Fish Catcher

David Hutton, APRIL 2021
Palmetto Fly n Fish

How would you like a simple, hackled fly that nearly always get a bite?
What if it's not exotic, complicated, or tied from costly materials?
Suppose it has a warm, fuzzy appeal?
Well, there is such a fly.

----- ----- <> ----- -----

Origin This fly came into being after a birthday trip to Hobby Lobby for my wife. She got treated to a little shopping spree, and I ended up with a small bag of mixed furnace saddle hackle. These little bags cost $3-4 USD, and after sorting, they offer about 75 useful feathers for tying flies.

Most are 2-4" long, some slim, some spade shaped. There are always some scruffy, ragged plumes included, too.

Taken as a whole, the feathers in the bag present a challenge. They don't match, they are of different shapes and sizes, and the first thing you usually say when you see them laid out is: "Just what am I going to do with them?"

I used these bagged feathers when I first started tying flies, because they were readily available, and I didn't know any better. At the time, I didn't know you were expected to use certain hackle for certain things. I went outside the box a lot when I first started. I still don't adhere closely to all the rules. But, because these are what I had, well, I hit on a pattern for my local lake that uses these mundane feathers. PS My wife is gone today, the victim of cancer. I soldier on and remember her as I read this. RIP Lori Jean...God bless you Giving It A Name The fly was inspired by two things. The first is a pattern called, "The Water Cricket," seen in the old Ray Bergman book, "Trout." Second, I once tied a single hackle on a hook, palmer style, and it caught tons of fish.

Just the hackle - nothing else. With these two ideas banging around in my head, I slung together the following:

(1) A short tail, usually of hackle feather barbs

(2) An underbody of sparkly Mylar

(3) A "body" of palmered hackle

(4) A hackle collar

Because of all these hackle elements, and the name of the nearby lake where I first used them, I have come to call them, "Lake Murray Hackle Flies," or, "M.H.F's" for short.

M.H.F.'s and the bagged feathers

                     
Inside The M.H.F

• Hook: if you’re a devoted hook hound, I'm gonna leave you hanging on this one....I have no manufacturer names to trow at you. A streamer hook, 3XL or so is best, but use what you have. I use Aberdeens. Nothing fancy here.
  
  
• Tail: hackle fibers from the bottom end of the feather, or the marabou-like fluff from the base. 
  Or both. Or neither - this fly works without a tail.
  I ad a tail because it makes the fly look "real."

• Underbody: Mylar tinsel 
  The hook shank is wrapped with iridescent Mylar tinsel, which shows through the body hackle, and adds a little flash. I was inspired to use pearl, or yellow, - because I have a lot of it.
  PS other materials work for the underbody, too. Copper colored strips from pot scrubbers look nice and add a little weight (See pic, below)
  
  
• Palmered hackle body: well tapered hackle, tied in at the tail by the tip, then folded backward as it is wound so the fibers face rearward.
  I use it all, too, getting all the feather has to offer.

• Hackle Collar: This is just behind the head, and gives the fly some "shoulders" and a lifelike profile.

And that is all there is to it: a folded hackle, palmered taper-style from back to front over sparkly Mylar material. It's that combination of hackle and inner sparkle that seems to do the work.

Details
The main goal of the tying is to get an increasing taper from tail to front, with a shoulder of hackle fibers out front.
To that end, I palmer them in fairly open wraps from the rear, tightening a bit until I reach the shoulder area.
There, I tighten up the wraps so I get more of the longer base fibers at the front.
If needed, I'll add another hackle at the front to bush it up.

Because these bagged feathers are large, I don't go smaller than a size 10, with size 6 being what I normally shoot for. This is about right for the larger bluegill and average-sized bass that might take this fly.

The head is often finished in black, because I like a black head.

The all white one, below, is an example of that. It resembles a bait fish, perhaps….

I have tied a few M.H.F's with some weight, in the form of lead strip wrapped around the hook shank before the Mylar goes on.
When I do that, my usual practice is to add a dot of red nail polish under the "chin" of the fly. It's my personal way of denoting weighted flies.
No red on the bottom of the head, ...no added weight.

These are usually tied in the two best colors I've found - white and brown.
I've also used orange, yellow, and black, although white and brown are mostly enough.
These flies probably represent a nymph, or a small baitfish, or,...well, who knows? I'm no good at reading the minds of women, or fish.
                      

MHF Variation, white

Tail of marabou fluff, taken from the main feather



MHF Copper 

Tail of rabbit fur, underbody is copper from a pot scrubber

Fishing The M.H.F.

1. Cast and countdown to depth.
By itself, the fly has a sink rate I describe as 'lazy': 2-3 seconds per foot.

2. Once down where you want it, give a few easy strips, then a pause.

3. Crawl it along with a figure-8 retrieve, adding an occasional quick twitch... then that pause again.

By itself, the MHF is not a deep, gravel-grubbing fly.
All that hackle on there prevents that.
So, because of that leisurely sink rate, The MHF demands a little patience.

But its the hang-pause that seems to trigger interest in the fly and I get as many strikes on the pause as I do during the retrieve.

If you want to get down a little faster, put some weight on the leader in the form of split shot, Twist On weights (my favorite), or tungsten putty*. This way, you don't disturb the free movement of the fly.
Adding a sink tip, or a sinking line is still another way to get the MHF down deeper.

----- ----- <> ----- -----

* NOTE: If tungsten putty is unfamiliar to you, I give you all you may ever want to know about it, here: 

Tungsten or Bust - Get The Lead Out! 

===========================

The Murray Hackle Fly doesn't do well around thick weeds, with that bare hook point, but Lake Murray is like most Southern impoundments and isn't overly weedy.
That means, the Murray Hackle Fly does well around rocky embankments, rock outcroppings, boat ramps, docks, downed wood, edges of cover, and so on. 

Conclusion
Polly Rosborough used to say, "The goal is to create flies that look like something a fish would want to eat." 
I have caught shellcracker, bluegill and bass on the M.H.F...so, it must do that much, at least!
The Murray Hackle Fly doesn't look like much, but it works. It is cheap, easy to make, and it uses materials that most “fly bro's” wouldn’t admit they have.

Taken together, that is a win all around, my friends!

Gaggle of M.H.F.'s

The First M.H.F.

----- ----- <> ----- -----

Writers should always strive for a job well done... even half-baked ones like me. So if you found value in this article, please like, comment, and share it. 

Do you want to add the catching flies seen here to your own fly or tackle box?
Do you have questions, compliments, or suggestions?
If so, email me at...dahutist@gmail.com

If you would appreciate another no-drama, no-hype Facebook group, follow this link and come join us at: 

Palmetto Fly n Fish

Thanks so much for reading, and...

Tight Lines,

David Hutton

© All rights reserved, David Hutton/Palmetto Fly N Fish 2018/2024 

 Batteries for Trolling Motors – Knowledge  Matters, Part 2

David Hutton
Palmetto Fly n Fish, March 2021

Introduction

In part 1, we took a deep dive into the different types of batteries, how they work, and some benefits to each. If you're not subscribed and missed it, here's the link to it:

Batteries For Trolling Motors, Part 1

Now, in part 2, we will look at the practical side of things to help you decide on the battery you should have, and how to get the most from it.

-----------------------------------------

The number one concern people have with a trolling motor battery is always the same:

“How long can I run a motor out on the water?”

Some guys wanna go all day, some don't. But everyone wants to know the answer to that question.

To answer it, we have to know two things:

1. A battery's amperage hour rating

2. A motor's current draw, in amps.

Let me say up front that trolling motor run-time is not a, "one-size fits all," kind of thing.
But you can approximate your potential run time, and have a good idea of what you'll need to get you there.

Amperage Hour rating
    A battery's amperage hour rating, abbreviated as amp/hour, or "Ah," is like the gas tank of a car. It basically describes how much current a battery can deliver over time.
For example, a 100 amp hour battery will last longer than a 55 amp hour battery.
    To be a little more precise, a 100 amp hour battery can deliver 100 amps of current for 1 hour – thus the name, “amp hour.”    

By the same token, it can also deliver 1 amp of current, for 100 hours.
This ability to cover a range of current draw possibilities is what saves us.

    There's a simple mathematical formula that covers this, in fact:

Amp hour rating (capacity)/current draw from motor = runtime

    So, lets say your motor was running at a low speed, drawing 5 amps from your 100 Ah battery. Using the formula, we would divide 100/5 to get a 20 hour run time.
    Going the other way, if you're running wide open and drawing 40 amps, the result would be 100/40, for a 2.5 hour run time.

Motor Current Draw
    A motor's exact amperage draw rating isn't always easy to find, but it will be available from the manufacturer. You can check the spec sheet that came with the motor, or if you don't have that, check on the internet

    Most manufacturers will only list a motor's maximum current draw at top speed. That's really all they can do, but it's enough.
With that information, we can extrapolate across the range, from zero to max, using that maximum value as a baseline.

    But we don't run our motors at a constant speed for a defined time-span, do we?
We run them fast, slow, and an awful lot of the time, somewhere in between.
Sometimes we don't run them at all.

    You have to understand that your power consumption is determined by the conditions, and how YOU choose to run the motor.
    For example, if you must power through a high flow river current, or against a stiff wind, you will require a higher power setting and draw more current.
If you paddle protected backwaters a lot, as I do, you may draw very little current from the battery in a given fishing session.

    So what's the simple answer to how much battery you need?
Drum roll please: There isn't one.

    Take a look at the chart above, and notice the first word in the heading - “approximate.”

    Really, it all comes down to throttle management. You can run at a moderate pace throughout the day, going from spot to spot, using drifting, paddling, anchoring, etc., or, you can run flat out for 2 1/2 hrs. and go to the other end of the lake.

    But the whole battery conundrum can usually be distilled down to:

Get the physically largest deep cycle battery that you NEED, which you can physically manage without throwing out your back, or upsetting the balance of your boat.
This is different for each application.

    For trolling motor use in a small boat, for example, I generally recommend a battery with AT LEAST a 100 amperage hour rating, and a Group 24-31 case size rating.
In a kayak you may want a motor with a reduced thrust factor, and that could mean a smaller battery.
But above all, know your motor's current draw and the battery's amp hour rating.
    From there, you can take what you've leaned here, do some simple math and find out what you need for YOUR situation
    And that's a result!

Some Battery DO's and DONT'S

Use Variable Speed Motors

    Using a variable speed motor (vs. a fixed speed motor) generally results in significantly longer run times. Variable motors are more energy efficient, especially at slower speeds. They are also much more convenient as they allow you to dial in the speed to the exact setting you want. 

    Actually, I'm not sure there are any fixed-speed motors available anymore. I haven't seen one, at least.

    There are also new electronic devices called “pulse width modulators” that feed the power to your motor in high frequency pulses. This stretches out the battery life, and they're worth considering if you want to add another tech project to your system.

Use A Higher Voltage Motor

    As voltage increases, you can get the same power using less current. In this way, larger 24v and 36v multi-battery trolling motor systems can provide the same thrust as 12 volt motors with less current draw. This results in longer run times.
    The motors are more expensive, of course, and you need TWO or THREE batteries in series to pull off this trick, so that might not be practical in YOUR situation.     

But seriously long run times are possible with 24v or 36v motor.

Don't Fully Deplete Your Battery: Big NO – NO!

    Running a battery “bone dry” on a regular basis will reduce the lifespan of your battery.
    Whenever possible, make it a habit to recharge your battery(s) before they are completely empty.
    Using a battery voltage monitor while on the water will help you know your battery's charge level, and reduce the chances of unexpectedly running out of juice miles from shore.
    For lithium batteries, use a lithium specific monitor that reads in remaining amp hours, and not just voltage.

Remember Your Batteries In The Off-Season

    It's really bad for batteries to be left uncharged for months at a time. It contributes to shorter battery life and reduced performance.
    During the off-season, use a battery tender or battery trickle charger to keep a small amount of current running through your batteries.
    Alternatively, you can re-charge your batteries every month or so to ensure they retain a charge and don't sit empty.
    Both options will significantly increase the life of your batteries.

Don't Mix Battery Types

    Resist the urge to mix old batteries with new ones. Ideally you want multi-battery banks to be of the same age and type.

Charge Batteries After Each Use

    Leaving batteries in a discharged state after use will decrease their longevity and performance. So make it part of your routine to charge them as soon as possible after you've used them.
    If you are using flooded, wet-cell batteries, also get in the habit of checking and topping up liquid levels every time you use them.

Storage

    Keep your batteries in a cool, dry place in the off-season and maintain them in a charged state.

Connecting the Battery

- Terminal connectors should be periodically examined for signs of corrosion. Don't just look at 'em, or pour Coca-Cola all over 'em...Take them apart and clean them as needed.
Know what's happening there, and keep ahead of any problems with your connections.

- The best way to hook the motor to the battery is with large-lug, ringed terminals that attach flat to the terminal with nut and bolt hardware. 

    If your battery has tapered posts, make sure they are clean and bulldog tight.
    If you have alligator clip connectors, dump them as soon as possible.
    From there, have an in-line circuit breaker, and use quick disconnects on the motor and battery if you want to remove them.

- Your wiring should be sized appropriately.
Wire that is too small will not conduct current efficiently, and will dissipate power in the form of heat.
Wire that is too large conducts current fine, but it may cost you more than is needed.
    Each motor manufacturer recommends the proper wire size, depending on how far from the battery the motor is placed. Since we're not tossing out random info, here, I'm gonna tell you to find out what wire sizes your motor manufacturer says to use... and then follow those instructions to the letter.

- Keep your battery clean and covered in use, and don’t leave it outside to freeze over winter.

    To really be honest, these things are easily as important as the battery itself.

FAQ
Q. What do the "group numbers" on batteries mean?
A. The group number indicates case size dimensions.
This is important because you could maybe use a somewhat smaller battery, and still get the same capacity as a larger one. That's why its important to understand the amp hour specification and how it applies.

Q. Is one brand better than another?
A. Generally speaking, no.
Saying that will get many brand loyal people worked up, but it is ALWAYS your first priority to understand that battery current capacity / Motor current draw = run time.

The name on the case, where you bought it, it’s price, or even its internal makeup are secondary, and may mean next to nothing.
There may be those batteries with better warranties, or some slight edge in materials, and certainly there's some great advertising hype involved.
But the science, technology and manufacturing behind batteries is well established, and plenty of people get YEARS from their Walmart brand batteries.

Q. Can batteries go bad from sitting?
A. Absolutely.
They lose a percentage of their charge, month after month, just sitting on the shelf. This means that the manufacturing date is important at the time of purchase. Look for batteries that are no more than 6-8 months old.
And once charged and in service, they should not sit around without being on the charger periodically to keep them topped up. I cycle charge those not in use once a month, and I rotate them into service through the season.

Q. Are these batteries expensive?
A. Yes.
However, it depends on your financial situation.
Some guys think nothing of having $4500 tied up in lithium batteries, high-end chargers, etc.
Me, that’s my fishing budget for the rest of my life!
So it's a different expense for everyone.
For those of us with pockets of average depth, plan to spend $1-$1.75 per amp hour for a decent AGM, deep cycle battery. You can shop around and find sales, or deals, but plan on that.

TIP: You can link batteries in parallel to gain current capacity.
For example, I use TWO 55 amp hour batteries connected in parallel to give me 110 amp hours. I get them for free, so its a no brainer to use them.

As you can see, when connected this way, the current capacity is additive.
This means each time you add one to the circuit, in parallel, you add the new battery's current to the total.

So you could buy one, now, to get you going, and literally double or triple your run time by buying another next month!

Q. How often should I charge the battery, and do I need a special charger?
A. That's easy: charge it as soon after discharging it, as possible.
Ideally, when you get it home from using it, you'll put it on the charger straight away.
As for the charger, use a charger that offers self-adjusting current levels, and a maintenance feature. This type reduces the amount of current flowing to the battery as it gets approaches peak charge, and then it shifts to “charge maintenance mode,” what some people call a “trickle charge.”

Finally no matter how careful and knowledgeable you are – things can go wrong.
Because of that, I strongly urge you to have a collapsible paddle on board, just case.

For general information about trolling motor batteries, this will help:
www.trollingmotors.net%2F86992071-picking-a-trolling-motor-battery

Thanks to the following online resources for their presence and information...

Dakotalithium.com

trollingmotors.net

wikipedia

https://www.crownbattery.com

Interstatebatteries.com

battlebornbatteries.com


As always, thanks for reading, and dont forget to...

visit us on Facebook at: Palmetto Fly n Fish

Tight Lines,

David

Palmetto  Fly n Fish

© All rights reserved, 2021 

    

Batteries for Trolling Motors – Knowledge  Matters, Part 1

David Hutton
Palmetto Fly n Fish, March 2021

Introduction

A lot of information goes around about batteries for trolling motors, and most boaters have at least a passing familiarity with them. But alot of what passes for knowledge is anecdote or opinion.
Some is just repeated out of simple ignorance of the facts, and some is pure hokum.

I've spent my entire working life around electronics in some form or another. I'm no Rhodes scholar, but I understand the concepts behind basic electricity.
    And batteries and motors are, if nothing else, pretty basic.

    I've also learned that most folks know very little about the electricity they get from batteries, and this especially applies to small boats and trolling motors, in particular.

    Fortunately, there are countless resources to help you learn. Batteries have changed over the years and new technology has been applied to them, so it pays to do a little research.

    However, it seems that almost no one does.

    Someone says something on a facebook page, and without knowing anything else, the would-be battery buyer runs out and plunks down his hard earned money. 
    This situation gives us a great opportunity to educate. It will be a challenge, but it may save frustration, time, and money... and that's worth it.
    So, lets get into it.

Battery types
    There are different types of batteries available, but the main types of batteries you might use for a trolling motor fall into a few categories:

1. Traditional flooded, lead-acid, or “wet” batteries
2. Absorbent Glass Mat, or AGM
3. Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4), or lithium-ion

The Old Standby ... Lead -Acid

 

    Traditionally, batteries rely on a chemical reaction between lead, and a solution of water and sulphuric acid, called "electrolyte," to produce electrical current. This process within the lead-acid battery hasn’t changed much since Frenchman Gaston Planté invented it in 1859.

    In truth, it hasn't needed to change.

    It’s still thin lead plates in a bath of sulfuric acid and water, inside a durable, polypropylene case. Improvements have been added over the years, but Monsieur Planté would probably still recognize his invention.
    The problem is, the DEMANDS placed on batteries have changed.
    Lead-in-electrolyte batteries are just fine, as long as you just want a quick, big jolt of current to turn over an engine’s starter. And fortunately, they are relatively inexpensive to make.
    However, they can’t run much of anything over a drawn out period of time. So for trolling motors, they're not the best choice. They will work, but they won't hold up for long.

    However the next generation of batteries can.

The Absorbed Glass Mat battery, and the Car

    An AGM battery is a battery designed for two jobs: delivering powerful bursts of current to a DC motor, and being able to also deliver lower current over a long time.
The bonus is, they also tend to last longer than a regular flooded battery.

    “Absorbent glass mat,” means what it sounds like – woven fiberglass mats sandwiched between ultra-thin lead plates, acting as squishy sponges. Because the plates are very thin, more glass mats and lead can be shoehorned tightly into the battery's case. And more lead equals more power.




    
    AGM batteries also have internal gas valves that control the amount of hydrogen and oxygen gas allowed to escape during charging. These two gases are a result of the chemical reaction that occurs when recharging a battery, and the valves bleed off the pressure they develop without harm.
The term you'll see to describe batteries with these valves is, “valve-regulated,” or VRLA (valve regulated lead acid). It is an important safety feature of these devices.

    AGM's were developed in the 1970's to serve as backup power for telephone systems and computer banks. Today, they've blossomed in popularity, and we see them in motorcycles, cars, military vehicles and aircraft, and as power storage for everything from emergency lights to office buildings.

    So what's the big deal over standard, flooded batteries?

    Actually, the “big deal” is quite amazing, especially with the car-sized batteries we boaters are interested in.

AGM advantages

To understand the advantages of AGM's for trolling motors, we have to start by talking about cars for a little bit.

    Up until the last couple decades, AGM's weren't much seen in automobiles. In 2014, you could count the number of vehicle models that needed an AGM battery on your two hands.
    However, hybrid electric and the new, start-stop vehicles need an advanced battery to keep the air conditioning running, even if the engine turns off.
The same can be said of all the futuristic technology: lane-keeping assistance, pre-collision warnings, remote engine starting, GPS locating systems, keyless entry and ignition...
    Finally, more and more motor vehicles are employing this “always-on tech.”
That means they need batteries that can deliver power over long periods. And that means AGM batteries are here to stay - and we benefit.

AGM batteries give you...

• More starts per battery
• Faster recharging
• More durable construction
• Safer handling
• Special valves protecting the battery's lifespan

    Most AGM batteries can start a car 60,000 times, or more. That’s more than three times the starts you’ll get out of a conventional wet battery.
    AGMs recharge faster, too. Once a car is started, the alternator takes over and replaces the current taken out to start the vehicle. Fast charging is a benefit, at that point.
    Because of the cushioning effects of the absorbed mats, AGM's withstand shaking and vibration better than typical batteries. Seems ideal for knocking around in boats, wouldn't you say?
    They’re also listed as spill-proof, meaning they are safer to handle all around.
    It probably sounds too good to be true, but it isn't. It's fact.

How AGM Batteries Work
    These benefits result from two special changes to the original wet battery, and a few extra design changes that fundamentally expand what batteries can do.

Big Deal #1 - The Valves
    First, an embedded gas valve prevents evaporated water from leaving the battery case. Its little more than a one-way check valve, but is the secret to an AGM’s long life.
    The AGM's fundamental chemistry is still based on lead, sulfuric acid and water. When you draw current from the battery, the acid molecules move to the lead plates, leaving water and lead sulfate behind. You are briefly removing the sulfuric acid from the liquid solution inside.
This enables a chemical reaction between the paste on the plates which results in an electrical current.
    The process is then reversed when you recharge the battery, and the sulfuric acid is mixed back into the solution.
    However, some molecular water loss will always occur when an electric current runs through water, because this splits it into hydrogen, and oxygen, gases.
Losing those gaseous water molecules through evaporation means the electrolyte becomes more acidic over time. This changes the chemical reaction on the plates, and ultimately shortens the life span of the battery.
    This is also the reason you had to replenish the water in the old, wet-cell, lead acid batteries

    But the valves in the AGM battery stops those water gases from leaving.

    And if you overcharge the battery, the valves save your butt again.
Using a charger that doesn't reduce the current supply as the battery nears full charge is a problem... an overcharging problem. 

    Just pushing full current the whole time means the current must push through, regardless... and it keeps breaking up water molecules, and builds gas pressure inside.
    That’s when another safety valve mechanism kicks in, again, this time to release excess gas vapor and equalize pressure inside the battery.

Big Deal #2: Fiberglass Mats
    The next big improvement feature is the “GM” part of AGM: the fiberglass mats.
    Ultra-thin glass fibers are woven into a spongy mat that soaks up all the electrolyte (water and sulfuric acid) into thin pillows that cushion the lead plates. Instead of a free-flowing, liquid acid sloshing around inside the battery, the AGM carries its charge in soaked, fiberglass sponges between the lead plates. Neat, huh?
    The glass mats’ complete coverage makes it easier to summon more power from an AGM battery — and they make it easier to recharge.

    In power, speed, long life and durability, the AGM battery has standard batteries beat by a mile.
    

Lithium Batteries
    Now, let’s discuss lithium batteries, the new darlings of the battery world,… the new kid everyone wants to know.
    And in fact, there are a ton of advantages to lithium batteries, and lots of people are jumping on the lithium bandwagon.
But like nearly all new tech, they also have at least one HUGE drawback that is usually glossed over, especially by their makers or those that have sunk money into them.
    But before we get to that, lets see what they bring to the table.
 

    The first benefit to portable lithium batteries, technically referred to as lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4), is that they don’t require any specific battery charger. They can be charged with most any current regulated charger, because they are outfitted with an on board battery management system (BMS) which controls the charging. Most makers want to sell you a special “smart” charger, of course, but the battery is self-regulating.

    Next, lithium batteries have longer-lasting power. A standard lithium-ion battery with a BMS has a long charge-cycle lifespan – up to 2000 discharge/recharge cycles, for example.
A high-quality AGM lead-acid battery may only be good for 500-600 cycles. That's still good, but it doesn't hold a candle to the lithium's cycle life.

    Non-lithium batteries lose voltage as they are drained, too. As the current goes out, the voltage across the plates diminishes. When these batteries reach about 50% voltage charge, they may lose their ability to run the trolling motor.

    Lithium batteries don't suffer this voltage drop while discharging.
    To be fair, they will also just quit on you with no warning, once their current capacity is depleted. You can at least monitor the voltage drop on the other batteries as they discharge, so you know where you stand with them.

    So it's not all roses with the lithiums. But, the fact remains that they can provide power, longer, over any other battery type.

    Still more advantages accrue to lithium batteries in the form of overcharge and deep discharge protection, built in. This means your batteries can be used for a longer period of time than a comparable lead-acid battery.
    They also weigh about 60% less than a conventional lead-acid trolling motor batteries, and they work down to - 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-29 Celsius).

    The final advantage is in the wiring needed for lithium batteries. Because the voltage stays more consistent during discharge, you don't need to oversize any of your wires to compensate for voltage loss when you run long lengths of cable.
This saves you money... well, as long as you never use anything else BUT lithium batteries.
    And with their built in BMS, you shouldn't need a short circuit disconnect – a circuit breaker, in other words. But you'd be foolish to dispense with the protection they offer, and its still ABYC* code to have them, so we wont call it an advantage.
* - American Boat and Yacht Council

    After reading this, you may wonder why other batteries exist at all. Well, like I said earlier, it's not ALL roses with lithium batteries.

    There is one huge disadvantage with the lithium batteries, El Numero Uno, the Big Bad Daddy of Drawbacks:

THEIR PRICE!

    Even the cheapest ones are 3-5 times more than any comparable AGM battery.
    As this was written, a 100-110 amp/hour, deep-cycle AGM like I usually run would cost anywhere between $150 and $250 to purchase.
The same capacity LiFePO4 battery is anywhere between $650-$1000, and up.
    Its shocking, really. I spit up my coffee the first time I looked at them.

I still do.

    So, is it worth putting up the money for lithium batteries?

Well, that depends on what you call, “need.”
You literally need food and water to live – but do you NEED a lithium battery for your trolling motor?
There's no definite answer to that question, except in terms of want and personal value choice.
If you want a long-lasting, durable battery - and cost is no object to you - then a lithium battery might be worth consideration.
    If you lose your job and have to take what you can get, well, the lithium batteries might not be so sweet.

What About Deep-cycle Batteries?
    The next thing you'll hear, over and over with trolling motor batteries, is the term, *deep cycle.*

“Man, you need a deep cycle battery for that thing. Nuttin else will do.” 

   

    It is repeated so often it has become a mantra, almost like people really know what it means.
Well, here's what it really means.

    A deep cycle battery is a lead-acid battery designed to provide sustained power over a long period, and run reliably until it is about 80% level of discharge, at which point it must be recharged.
    It is important to note that although most deep cycle batteries can be discharged up to 80%, most manufacturers recommend not discharging below around the 50% level to extend the life of the battery.
    
    It is this level of discharge that is the “deep cycle” people talk about. It is the opposite of conventional battery types that are designed to deliver massive jolts of current in short bursts before they need to be recharged.
    To illustrate, a cars starter battery discharges only a tiny percentage of its overall capacity -- usually 5% or so -- each time it is used. But it does it in 600 amp chunks!
Then this relatively small percentage gets replaced by the cars alternator to await the next demand.

    Deep-cycle batteries, by contrast, might deliver, say, 30 amps, but they can do it for hours before needing a recharge

    For lead-acid, deep-cycle batteries, however, there is bad news. Well, kinda-sorta bad news.
    The bad news comes in the form of an inverse relationship between the depth of discharge (DOD) and the number of charge and discharge cycles it can perform.
In other words, the deeper you discharge it each time, the fewer recharge cycles it can handle before failure.
Go too far and you might kill it.
Literally.
    This is why lead-acid batteries are recommended to be discharged to an average "depth of discharge" of around 50%... it's a safety margin.
    On the other hand, they are still lead-acid batteries, albeit vastly improved ones. This means they bring the undeniable benefit of being way cheaper than the exotic lithium-ion cells.

This is the end of part one. Take a breather and then head to part 2, found here:

Batteries For Trolling Motors, part 2

Then, come visit us on Facebook at:

Palmetto Fly n Fish

Thanks for reading, and Tight Lines,

David

Palmetto  Fly n Fish
© All rights reserved, 2021 

The Gill Bug - A Bass and Panfish Fly

The Gill Bug

David Hutton, Palmetto Fly N Fish

Mar 8 2021

Simple flies.
I like simple flies. 
Just saying it aloud - “simple flies” - is appealing.
And when I say, "simple," I mean three materials or less, excluding thread and hook.

    No complicated engineering, no laundry list of materials, and no difficult tying gymnastics...that is simple. And that's what we have here today - a simple but very effective pattern for bass and panfish: THE GILL BUG.

------------<~~>------------

Gill Bugs Galore

Origin of pattern
    This pattern was the brainchild of Detroit rod builder, taxidermist and inventor, Paul Young.
    If you were around in the 80's, you'll probably remember a pop musician of the same name, with a few hits back then. Well ...

Sorry - not THAT Paul Young

    Instead, the man I refer to is Paul H. Young, the fly fishing legend...

                                                            

THIS Paul Young

    He built some of the finest fly rods ever, and was among the best of the post-WWII rod crafters...

    His gear and his book, "Making and Using the Fly and Leader," still bring high prices whenever they come up for sale.

Today, a chapter of Trout Unlimited is named after him.
And he had “firsts”...
- He was the first to take the short, slim fly rod into the mainstream.
- He was the first to promote Mustad's famous barbless hooks, and he invented the famed Strawman Nymph, among others.
- Remember those collapsible, plastic drinking cups? The Trik-Kup? Paul Young invented them, too.

    But Mr. Young was also a keen angler and fly tyer.
Our featured pattern, the Gill Bug, is one of his patterns, albeit a lesser known one. It was created to overcome the main drawback of most bass flies in general:

They're just too dang big and bulky to cast pleasantly without heavy rod and line combos.

    It's understandable that trout anglers, or panfishermen, might not want to invest in an outfit just for this heavy fishing.

    I'm one of them.

    Fortunately for us, Mr. Young gave us the Gill Bug to deal with that. It is lightweight, not overly air resistant, and it floats on the water very well. Best of all, it appeals to bass when they want a surface pattern.

    It was also popular in the not-too-distant past, from what I can learn of it.
    Chauncey Lively wrote glowingly of it in the 60's. That's pretty big, in itself. It had a loyal following in the Northeast, and has been adapted to every size hook imaginable.
It has caught bass, trout, pike, and panfish of all kinds.
Your great grand-dad may have known of it.
    Even so, like so many good, older flies, it has disappeared from the modern fly box... An internet search of the pattern turns up nothing.

    So, dear friends, we are here today to usher in a Gill Bug revival, albeit a small one.
Gimme an, “AMEN,” and lets get into it!

 What It Is And The Materials

    The Gill Bug can loosely be called a moth-type pattern. This idea, a big moth or butterfly as artificial lure started in the late 1800's, and was common through much of the 20^th century.
It's logical, I suppose, if a bit fanciful to the modern fly angler.

    To be honest, the idea hasn't survived too well here in the 21^st century. A few older patterns bow to the concept....
There's the old Neversink Skater.
The White Deer Hair Moth, and The Spruce Moth come to mind, too.
And now and then, someone hits on something similar to the Gill Bug... although they never quite get there.  

    But, the "moth fly," or at least the concept, is mostly unloved and just lingers in the corners of fly fishing. Fortunately, bass don't know or care about all that. To them, it just looks like something good to eat, and it appeals to our imaginations.
    In the end, both are good enough.

The Tools and Materials

Tools
    The tools used aren't anything unusual – here's the list:(from L to R in the foto)

Scissors (3)
Bodkin
Hair stacker
Thread holder (bobbin)
Hollow punch (for foam variations)
Hair comb
Super glue
Cement, black
Dubbing
Deer hair
Foam
(not shown - chenille of your choice)

    Serrated deer hair scissors are maybe the most unique tool of the bunch. Everything else is standard stuff.

    For materials, the original Gill Bug uses only chenille and a clump of deer hair.

    Can it be simpler than that?!

    But don't be fooled - under that label of, “simple,” is a bit of magic that may not be obvious. The magic is hair taken from a deer... good ol' deer hair.

                       
    I don't know what it is, but there is just something almost bewitching about deer hair in a fly pattern. Fish just seem to fall for it, like you or I might fall off a log. If I see deer hair in a fly, I'm automatically confident with it.

    Another feature of the deer hair wing on the Gill Bug is its dihedral spread. It is angular, in a “v-shape,” and spreads up and back, above the body and hook.
    Dihedral is the same aerodynamic principle that helps model aircraft fly right side up, and in the Gill Bug, it allows the thing to land on the water in the proper orientation

                                       
                                        Wing dihedral

Gill Bug Dihedral

    The deer hair in the Gill Bug can be coarse, and this actually works best in the larger sizes. To get an idea of the quantity of deer hair used, you want enough deer hair to pinch solidly between thumb and the first two fingers, for a #4 hook.

    For thread, you want something strong to bind the deer hair to the hook - I suggest something along the lines of 6/0, 210 Denier, etc. A little cement during construction can't go wrong, either.

    Hook sizes for bass are in the #6-#4 range, and they should be relatively light, but long enough to give you a decent body length. I like an Aberdeen, but anything along these lines is good. Just not too heavy; the Gill Bug is intended to be worked as a surface pattern.

    The chenille is your choice. I left it out of the materials foto above, because I immediately started looking for alternatives.
But the original pattern from Mr. Young used two strands of chenille in alternating bands - black and orange.
I've also seen reference to them in black and white.
Other good colors are white with natural deer hair, and yellow body/black hair.

Variations, Sizes

    You can, of course, tie the Gill Bug in sizes more in keeping with its name sake...bluegill sized, in other words. It makes a dandy panfish bug.
    For smaller fish like bluegill, hook sizes #6-#12 would be right. For these, finer deer hair is called for, simply to maintain proper proportions overall.

    An interesting variation is to tie the your Gill Bugs inverted, with the hook point up. This way, when it comes gliding down on that V-wing, it will land with the hook point out of the water. This is good for fishing in lily pads, where you can gently walk the Gill Bug across the top of the lily pads, until open water is reached.

Upside Down - gotta work on that head

    Probably the coolest adaptation I've found for the Gill Bug is to make the body out of foam.
    The original chenille had to be well greased with fly floatant and will become water logged, eventually. But not EVA craft foam!
    The foam can be applied as wound-on strips, or my favorite, as a disc, folded around the shank, taco-fashion. This method came from Harrison Steeves III. You can see a couple II did with these foam discs in the opening foto; a dot of super glue holds them together.

Fishing notes
    The time honored way to fish a “moth fly” is to skitter, or skate it across the waters surface. 

    You either grease them and the leader well, or use foam and a greased leader, so everything floats high on the water. Then, pick up the rod tip, like you're going to start a back cast, and once it starts moving – you twitch the bug across the surface in a waking, skipping kind of retrieve.
    Waggling your wrist at the same time can make the fly dance a little on the surface, another way to make it work its magic. The big scoop-shaped head is there to help the fly scoot up out of the water a little better.

    Both of these techniques work best without having too much line out..., if it is too long, the line drags the fly and reduces the control you might have over the Gill Bug.

    But after a little experimentation, you'll get the hang of it, and you're in for tons of fun..., and the bass should find it irresistible.

    Regardless of whether you use chenille or foam for the body, don't skimp on the floatant. You want the fly barely in the surface film, to pull off these antics.

    Of course you can also just fish the Gill Bug like a regular surface fly, without all the gyrations. It is a good surface fly, just a quiet mover, and will work just fine to get the fish's attention..., and the magic deer hair will lure them in for the take.

But no matter how you fish it, Paul Young's 'Gill Bug' is due for a revival.

------------<~~>-----------

Writers should always strive for a job well done... especially mediocre writers like me. If you found value in this article, please like, comment, and share it. 

Do you want to add the catching flies seen here to your own fly or tackle box? Do you have questions, compliments, or suggestions?
If so, email me at...dahutist@gmail.com

If you appreciate a no-drama, no-hype Facebook group, follow this link and come join us at: 

Palmetto Fly n Fish

Thanks so much for reading, and...

Tight Lines,

Dave Hutton

© All rights reserved, David Hutton/Palmetto Fly N Fish 2021/2023