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Hair Nymphs

Sunday, November 27, 2022

Round Dinny - A Spin On A Classic Pattern

David Hutton
Palmetto Fly N Fish © All rights reserved
November 27, 2022




    I tie more flies than I fish these days; family medical issues keep me from the water more than I'd like. But this doesnt stop me from tying patterns that strike my fancy.
    Along these lines, I have lately noticed a revival of the time-honored, "Round Dinny" pattern. You might see them on the many fly tying fan pages, and several makers are selling copies. Bart Lombardo at Panfishonthefly.com also sells component kits, here:

Fly tying kit - Round Dinny
   
The ol' Round Dinny is seemingly everywhere these days, and once bitten by the Dinny bug, you can bet I worked out my own spin on this classic! 


Old School Pattern

    The original "Round Dinny" was from the 1950s and 60s, made and sold by the Accardo Company.
    Tony Accardo, of Baton Rouge LA, owned and led the business, farming out the tying of his patterns to local folks. According to those who worked for him, he supplied them with the basic body already fixed to the hook, the various dressings, and the flies were then tied as required.
    Tony had a number of different offerings, mostly different types of poppers and sliders. Perhaps his most popular was this article's subject, "The Round Dinny."

    The unique thing about the Round Dinny is, well,... it is round.
Instead of the usual conical, cylindrical, or bullet shape, this pattern uses a round cork ball for a body - thus the  name.

    The Round Dinny isn't the only, or even first, round body surface fly I'm familiar with. There was the "Bubbler/Babbler," which C. Boyd Pfeiffer credits to Jacques Herter (1). I've seen round deer-hair flies, too, and Pfeiffer claims there were others, even older. And there are plenty of copies, as already mentioned. 
    My guess is, Accardo successfully packaged an already known pattern -  his entire line of flies were mostly re-pops of existing pattern types. But they were quite popular in the South, at a time when fly fishing for panfish was hardly considered respectable.
    So Tony gets most of the credit, and rightly so.

The Concept



Original Accardo Packaging




Round Dinny's on Original Salesmans Board
foto courtesy of breambugs.com (3)

   
As fly patterns go, the Round Dinny isn't very complex. If you look at the above fotos, you'll see it is just a round ball with a bunch of rubber legs, and big wads of feather dressing.
    However, while it is fairly simple, there is a neat little trick that results from the spherical shape. 

    The ball itself floats, with the weight of the hook dangling below to balance the thing. And that is the key to its success - the hook will swing down below with even the slightest movement. This makes the bug "rock" back and forth... and the hair, feathers, and legs wiggle wildly the whole time.

"This rocking action entices fish to strike, better than the average surface lure."
- George Herter 


    Pull on the line gently, rhythmically, and the ball/body rocks, making a very attractive presentation.
    Next, give it some stout strips and it behaves something like a slider, ducking underwater then popping back up.

    The Round Dinny is usually lumped into the "popper" category of flies, probably because there aren't many other labels to put on it.
    "Ball Flies?" That works, but it has never caught on. For my money, it is a slider that kinda acts like a popper.


Materials

    Traditionally, this pattern uses a cork ball for the body. 
Being an older pattern, cork is what you'd expect...naturally. 
George Herter also adds in his book (2), that other shapes work, as long as they will rock while the hook does the work underneath.
    I suppose you could also make rounded shapes or balls from balsa, pauwlonia, or other light woods if you wanted to craft your own.

     I didn't want to get into all THAT, however; I intended to just use the normal cork balls like everyone else..., and there are plenty of them available.
    
     But then I stumbled upon EVA craft foam balls. The ones I ended up with are intended as pop-up bait floats for carp fishing. 
    Yes, friends... they are carp balls. LOL 😊
    But the big deal is that they are cheap, they are tough as nails, and they come in a several sizes and colors. Best of all, they have a hole pierced right through their middle... just the thing for pushing onto a hook.
    You can get small balls, big balls, brightly colored balls, all made from robust foam, ... and they have a pre-made hole in them, too!


INTERMISSION

    We all know that whenever the word, "balls," shows up,  you gotta do this... so lets do it! Click on the link below:



    
    So, with that out of the way... it's back to our program.

Source
    The foam balls for my Round Dinnys come via aliexpress.com
(4), one of the top, China-direct mail order outfits around.
    You read a lot of bad press about these Chinese sources, but most of that comes from the early days when they were just starting out. Today, I have virtually no problems ordering or receiving merchandise from them. 
    It takes time to get from China, through the international mail system, and into your hands - so you need some patience. But even the transit times have improved in recent years.
    But, I know some folks are against getting supplies this way, and that's okay; you can find similar foam balls elsewhere.
    Try a carp anglers supply, craft stores, or just google search for them. Walmart might even have them. They all come from the same Chinese factories, anyway, so get them wherever you can. 
    If there is one problem with supply, though, it is not with finding them,... it is that most craft foam balls are too large. For fly tying, you'll want to seek out smaller sizes.

My Balls
    Lets have a look at the foam 
balls I got from aliexpress. They are chartreuse, and 12mm in diameter.
This is close enough to 
1/2" to call it good. They come 15 to a pack as I purchased them, and here is what they look like in the package... 





    These foam balls have a fine nap surface, a soft, "micro fuzz." Think of it as a very fine, suede-like finish. I don't consider this finish a problem; I rather like it.
    But some of y
ou reading this want a glossy, smooth finish on everything. If that describes you, odds are you probably won't like these as they come from the package. But, these foam balls are quite solid, and they will probably take epoxy or UV resin. In that way you could make them as shiny as you like. 
    Or you could use them, as is... who knows, they may grow on you.

Tying steps
    In short, you first affix the ball to the hook, to make a body. Then, you dress the pattern.

1. Mount your hook in the vise and measure the ball diameter against the shank. You want the hook shank at least twice as long as the width of the ball, with the eye just protruding from the ball.

2. 
Push the ball onto the hook, over the eye, and move it all the way to the rear, at the bend

3. Wrap a base line of tying thread along the hook shank, and make it double or triple thick in the area where the ball will seat, starting behind the eye. 
 
Alternatively, you can wrap the thread first, then slide the ball to the rear. Either way works.

4. Apply a drop of super glue to the thread base, and quickly slide the ball from the rear right up to behind the eye. Do this in one smooth movement, as the glue sets fast!

NOTE: Super glue cures within seconds, and together with the foam, it creates an amazingly strong bond. Seriously, you can't dislodge the bodies, once you've glued them on.
Should things go badly with this step, you have to 
literally rip and cut the body off the hook...so make a few trial runs before committing to the glue. 
    But once secured, these things won't be coming apart on you - that's for sure!
I'm calling them bullet proof.


5. IMPORTANT: Once the adhesive is set, cut a small, flat section from the bottom of the ball. I recommend a large, sharp scissors to do this. Center this cutaway on the shaft, to clear the hook gap. This will ensure better hookups.
 

    You can run a production line this way, turning out all the hook-and-body components you want. Fill a box with 'em!
    Then, just sort out whatever dressing you want to apply.
   
    Best of all, no hump shank hooks are needed with these foam balls. This saves the step of cutting slots for the hooks, and the foam doesn't don't need filling and paint prep like cork!

Dressing the Fly
    First, we add whatever decorative touches are wanted. Eyes are a must, of course. Then maybe a few lifelike, "camouflage" bits. To do these things, a combination of common materials were used:
  • Enamel paint
  • Permanent marker
  • Nail polish
  • Fabric 'texture paint'
    I suggest keeping this part simple, with a "less is more," approach. 
    But as always, you can get as creative as you wish. Try some of that UV resin if your the kind who wants it on everything.
    
Rubber legs are traditional on this pattern, but I'm a little outside the box on this topic.
Over the seasons, I've discovered that flowing, sinuous hackle and deer hair are just as enticing to the fish as anything else. Fish were caught on nothing else for centuries, after all, well before rubber legs were known. Plus, long rubber legs are often nibbled at by the fish without them really taking the fly. So the rubber was left off, with feather and moose hair chosen as dressing.    
    Moose hair went down first as a tail.
    Next, our household feather duster donated some thick bunches of ostrich barbules for wavy movement.* 
    After that, sparkly dubbing was wound on.
    Lastly,
long pheasant and hen soft hackle was palmered on to, "round out" the fly (pun intended) 😀.   

* PS If you don't have a feather duster just for fly tying, it is time to get one. Use it to dust your house, because you know it probably needs it. Then, keep it handy for fly tying. 

Pattern Materials List

> Hook - # 4 Aberdeen, from the Eagle Claw dispenser I wrote about here... 

Eagle Claw Hooks For The Win!

The important thing with the hook is to have enough shank length to accommodate double the ball diameter. This way your work on the fly is eased, you get a good rocking motion, and the hook point won't be much blocked by the body.
Lets call it 3X or longer. 

> Thread - 6/0 Danville flat

> Foam Ball for body - 1/2" (12mm) foam EVA carp pop-up ball 

> Dubbing - Hareline Ice Dub; "Peacock" was the chosen color. It doesn't matter what you use, though; just get some sparkly flash peeking out through the dressing.

> Dressing - Moose tail, ostrich plume, dubbing, pheasant and hen soft hackle.

> Decoration - permanent marker, nail polish, paint, etc....

UPDATE: It occurs to me that something to minimize snags might be wanted on these flies. Either a weed guard, or reversing the hook so it points backwards? Hmmm,... more development to come.


Thanks for reading, and I hope you learned something. If you enjoyed it, a like and share is appreciated.

PS i
f you are interested in a no drama, Facebook fishing page, visit us at: 

Tight Lines,

David
Palmetto Fly n Fish

©2022 All rights reserved. You are encouraged to duplicate all, or any part of this, with proper attribution and affiliate links.

references

1. "Tying Warmwater Flies," C. Boys Pfeiffer, 2003

2. "Fly Tying, Spinning, and Tackle Making Manual and Manufacturers Guide," George Herter, 1968 edition

3. Breambugs.com

4. Aliexpress.com

5. PanfishOnTheFly.com

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